So there's no real phrase to begin this blog that fully grasps this experience so far. One thing I can say keeps occurring to me: Seoul is A HUGE CITY. Let me tell you about my trip so far!

I arrived late Friday night, having met an American couple from Alabama with whom I shared a cab, and I felt much better about my enormous suitcase when I saw them with their eight good-sized ones. At the hotel, I was assigned a room with three beds, and I was the first one there, able to settle in and sleep.

Saturday morning I took my trusty Rough Guide and the advice of the concierge to head North of the Han to do some touring of the Palace District. In the nearest metro, my first language barrier: buying a ticket. I showed the man at the booth where I wanted to go. He took my map, talked away in Korean and then gave it back to me. I offered him money, made signs for money, threw my hands up in the air to ask how much, and he served the person behind me. I slid over and opened my phrase book to look up some sort of helpful communication, when a very sweet Japanese couple asked if I needed help. They told me how much a ticket was, asked the man for the same one they had (in English, might I point out) and off we went to navigate the subway system together! Luckily, this couple was headed in the same direction, and they explained to me that the stops were numbered and despite this complexity of the rails, it is all very civilized and reliable.

In fact, that's one thing I've really come to appreciate here: how a city as massive as Seoul can be so well organized! Of course, I can't conceive of enough of it to make that statement confidently.

The Japanese couple asked about my trip, and in broken conversation I understood that the husband had been to Canada for business - for once, when I say I'm from Canada, the first place they ask about here is Vancouver. A bit refreshing. They knew Toronto too of course, but thought we spoke French there - I came to understand that the woman spoke better French than English, so we continued on that way, talking about Paris and Lyon! We parted ways at their stop, and I found my way out onto the pavilion in front of the Gyeongbok Palace, whose paths I wandered for the next few hours, taking plenty of pictures of the colourful beams and Asian architecture. The two museums on the grounds were also wonderful, and I took particular joy in writing my wish for this Year of the Ox at their special exhibit - I am also an Ox, born in '85!

Leaving Gyeongbokgung, I wanted to get to Anguk, a neighbourhood I was told was popular with tourists. The intersections are so huge that everything is done with underpasses for pedestrians, and these exit in ten different directions, and usually double as fair-sized underground malls. Needless to say, I didn't know where I was walking, and as much as I was happy asking for directions (the Koreans are very friendly and eager to help), I got the impression that, flustered by their lack of English, the random construction workers and police officers just pointed me the same way I was already heading. In any case, I was discovering the city and orienting myself with the well-marked subway stops, when I came upon a side street overflowing with merchants and shoppers, which made me giddy with culture shock. In a great way. I only returned "home" when my feet felt like their soles had been scraped off, but even the subway transfers involve lots of walking.

When I got back to my room, sure enough there were two more girls there. Both had taught with the company before, and both were of Korean decent but from L.A. One said she'd "worked the winter camp until last week", but neither elaborated, since they were deeply involved in what looked like a really bad Korean reality show, subtitled in Korean as well. So I went into laptop-land until they both left to go clubbing with different groups of friends. I was a little down about not getting to know them more, but at least I went to sleep early and in peace.

I remember one girl stumbling in around 2am, and the other never came back. In the morning, I was awake early but trying to force myself to sleep in past eight to overcome some jetlag. I decided I was allowed to get up once vomiting sounds in our washroom ended and girl-who-had-never-introduced-herself stumbled back into bed. I asked her if she was alright in my most sympathetic voice and she curled up in her duvet next to me, moaning "huuunnnng oooooover". She actually opened up to me after that, talking about how the job market in the U.S. is so bad that lots of Koreans are coming back to teach ESL. The Winter Camp is an intensive Immersion programme for kids on their winter break. So lots of these teachers jump from one contract to the next, under our same company. I feel like I might be a little oblivious to what I've gotten myself into. But hey, the American couple was in the same boat as me!

I asserted my role as no-nightlife Kate by strapping my boots back on and heading out to explore the hotel neighbourhood - Gangnam, where I was posted before they moved me to Daejeon. It's very nice, but I mostly just wandered because the sunshine made for a pleasant walk through the massive, endless city streets. I haven't encountered many non-Asians at all, and am made aware of my blue eyes every once in a while when I glance up and my gaze is held for a second longer than normal. Some children will come up and exclaim "Hello!", and are absolutely tickled pink when you say hello back. None of this makes me uncomfortable at all; it's all with genuine interest, and I never feel singled out or like I'm being scoffed at, even with my embarrassing lack of simple Korea phrases. I smile and nod a lot, kind of bowing when I buy something or am given directions.

Back at the hotel to rest just now, I got a call from the concierge to my room, which had luckily been vacated by my roommates - they needed someone to be moved to a two-person room. I volunteered once I saw the room; much the same but with a neat suitcase next to the bed I wouldn't have chosen anyway. It was a good move, although I hope the other girls don't think I was snubbing them. My new roommate is another Korean girl but from Vancouver, who had also worked at the Winter Camp - she's very friendly, and invited her friends in to meet me before heading out. I'm happy to have some downtime, and I feel like I can unpack a little in preparation for a week of training now. There's going to be lots to do!

So I'll leave you now that I've written enough to make anyone quit visiting my blog. I promise to make this more reader-friendly in the future! I hope you're all well, and not under too much snow, there in Canada (I tease because I know you are!) while I wander the sunny streets, clouded only by ginormous skyscrapers.

Love from Asia!

Things I wish I could say:

"Is this sweet or salty?" I've settled for shrieking "Sugar? Sugar!" which just sounds mad, especially when the response I get is "One thousand Won for two". I'm afraid most of the salty stuff is fish- or seaweed-based, and when we're talking fried food, it's going to be something I don't have to choke down to prove I'm cultured.

Things I've eaten:

A pumpkin sandwich at the Folks Museum; white bread filled with a sweet relish of cooked pumpkin, hot peppers and I think olives.

Sweet garlic bread sticks: at a "French" bakery down the street from the hotel, they looked and smelt like garlic bread, but had perhaps been brushed with a sugary glaze? Very odd.

A ginseng drink bought in a variety store, which tasted awful, but I drank it anyway. My roommates later told me it was medicine. I couldn't keep my eyes open about a half hour later. Good thing I was in my room by then.

Really awesome Mandarin oranges from a lady in the subway. Damn straight!

…I'll add some more interesting things to this list when I actually get some Korean food into me! This neighbourhood seems to be overflowing with Italian restaurants. And I thought I'd be missing bread and cheese.