So it was an eventful weekend in Korea: North Korea launched its "successful satellite" / "failed missile" - I take both terms with a grain of salt, having seen the propaganda that both sides tend to generate when political ideologies differ in this way. The exciting thing for me was that this was the weekend I dragged myself into Seoul (after a festive night out and about 3 hours of sleep) to take a tour North, to the DeMilitarized Zone. I met up with B&L, the Alabaman couple who I spent Training with two months ago. They are the most gracious hosts, having bought the world's softest blanket for me to sleep under on their couch! Their sunny apartment in Itaewon is nestled behind the bustling street of restaurants, teeming with foreigners. I realized then how much more cosmopolitan Seoul is than Daejeon; I had a bit of reverse-culture-shock, being back in a place where there is a true multiculture! We ventured to the USO military base, Camp Kim, and boarded a bus with a guide with an almost-incomprehensible Korean accent. It wasn't long before we were driving along the border next to River Imjin, and finally were told to put away our cameras while we passed the UN border into the DMZ, headed for the small otherworldly village of PanMunJom. The stops (Camp Bonifas, the Military Armistice Commission, the Pagoda at Freedom House, Checkpoint 3, Bridge of No Return, views of Propaganda Village) were interesting in theory, but it was a hazy day, and it was simply knowing that the land we were looking at was so forbidden that made it so. The winds were strong enough to make the world's largest flag (it's hard to know for sure, but they estimate it's six hundred pounds of material) fly atop the giant flagpole of an empty propaganda village. There were restrictions on what we could photograph, and on where we could wander off to, of course - the "Active Mine Field" signs were enough of a deterrence! Finally, we ventured to cross into the Joint Security Area, where we weren't sure we would be allowed to go - after all, this was after the window had opened for a possible rocket launch - but the winds were high enough that the UNC soldiers thought the threat was low. An American soldier presented a slide show to us, then accompanied us through a museum, both of which seemed rather propaganda-y themselves! The movie was all about reunification, as if it had already happened and everyone was content now, and the museum displayed weapons and mines, then showed you how the DMZ is actually a wonderful nature reserve. Hmmmmmmmm The real fun was a tunnel, "the Third Tunnel of Aggression", discovered in '78 - we ventured 73m underground and through part of the small tunnel, where B and I couldn't stand straight most of the time. When the tunnel was discovered by South Korea, this - the closest to Seoul (only 44km away!) of four - was painted with coal by North Koreans so they could claim it was an abandoned coal mine. We had to wear hard hats - but couldn't take any pictures! :(

Lunch was typical Korean food - Bimbambop for me and L, Golbi for B. Most stops had little tourist shops, which I haven't had my fill of yet in this country, but there was a weird air of tension about it all! The most memorable thing for me was in the truce village, where bright blue UN buildings built directly over the border allow the North and South officials to meet. We were told repeatedly that microphones from the North were recording us, and watch towers were filming us. It's important not to do anything offensive, mostly because the North uses this as propaganda to portray Westerners in a bad light. Inside the centre building, we walked around the negotiation table, stepping into North Korean property, where soldiers guarded the doors in Taekwondo positions, with clenched fists. I wonder how it would be to be these guys, with such a serious job, yet having to put up with tourists and their photo-op.s all day. (Damn tourists. Okay, mea culpa!)

All of this made me more interested in truly visiting North Korea with the Canadian Couple - what an unlikely adventure; the kind of exotic activity to satisfy this craving for adventure for a while? In any case, we will be waiting until the tensions die down again...

That night back in Itaewon, B&L took me out for Moroccan food and ColdStone icecream (both unbelievably delish) and I was charmed by the hustle of sidewalk stores and such. I decided then to stay another night. B&L had to teach the next day, but I was extremely happy to wander around Seoul, committing to a subway pass, so intent am I to go back often! I didn't feel like I needed to get out of Daejeon, but once in the capital, I was feeling better than ever!

Being in B&L's apartment was a comfort, too - I didn't realize how much I missed watching the news, or having a toaster. B, a journalist in "real life" (as I've come to think of it!) showed me the diverse TV stations they get, like CCTV; China Central Television - and by the next afternoon, we were watching the People's Republic's version of North Korea's (attempted?) rocket launch. It makes you wonder how much we Westerners are kept from hearing (or just plain gnoant?) of the other side of the argument; it was so interesting!!!

On the other hand, I am so thankful to be at my sweet little branch of The Company after hearing how teaching and bureaucracy works at the Main Branch for poor B&L! I almost feel that I should already reform my classes lest any of the head honchos there see the security tapes from certain middle-school classes...

In any case, I now pride myself on navigating train stations and subway systems between these two cities, one; so huge and exciting, the other; home, now. I was happy to be back in my studio Monday morning in time to prep. for my evening classes; hanging with Mong the dog, writing and reading and typing and drawing and realizing that I'm pretty happy about life here in Daejeon.

All I'm missing is you! xoxo