We´ve just returned (eventually) from an amazing week spent around Rurrenabaque in the Amazon Basin of Bolivia, visiting the Pampas and taking a trip into the jungle of Madidi National Park. It´s been a phenomenal adventure.

Pampas first. They are basically massive wetlands with lush vegetation and supporting a vast amount of animal life. For 3 days we explored the area around our camp by boat. It kicked off with a 3 hour trip up river from Santa Rosa to our lodge (complete with proper beds, a dining room that produced some fab meals, and a sunset bar - hooray!), during which we were supposed to see lots of animal life. Well we did see lots of plants - hard not to really - but due to the incessant rain the animal life was limited to monkeys and birds. That said, the monkeys were pretty cool - howlers mostly - and the birds were varied, some huge and incredible.

The 3 days were filled with a variety of things. We went night caiman spotting, where we picked up the red glow of their eyes in our torch light as we cruised up and down the river, and gazed at a star-studded night sky. We went anaconda spotting in the pampas themselves, which was draining underneath the hot sun as we slogged through knee-high water (and watched in amazement as our guides got in up to their thighs!), and sadly to no avail - the anaconda would have to wait until the next day, when we went to visit one that was resident at another camp. Huge, black and powerful-looking, part of me was quite glad we hadn´t disturbed one on the pampas! A real highlight of the trip was swimming with the pink river dolphins. They came very close to us in the water and in the boat, and you could feel them swim underneath your feet - quite exhiliarating! The only downside was the sulphuric water turning your hair black - mine took a good few washes to look its usual blonde rather than grey! The sunrise cruise was also fabulous - so quiet and peaceful knowing the amount of life, both plant and animal, surrounding you.

The only downside were the mosquitoes. After only 3 days I´d collected about 50 bites and was very much looking forward to the jungle where, apparently, the bitey insects were far fewer. Another 3 hour boat ride (from Rurrenabaque) took us into Madidi National Park, where we spent 2 days hiking and camping in the jungle. Short though it was, it was fantastic and I wish I´d spent 2 days in the pampas and 3 in the jungle rather than the other way round. It was partly better because it was much more active, with some wonderful - if tiring - long walks (so nice being able to breathe down at 300m above sea level rather than 3000m above!) to awesome viewpoints that gave us 180 degree views of the jungle basin. Our guide taught us about all sorts of plants - mostly with medicinal properties that Caroline selflessly allowed to be demonstrated by being stung by an array of beasties, including a nasty wasp and a nest of fire ants. And the plants worked!

So although the trip was incredible, I was thoroughly looking forward to getting back to the cool of La Paz, partly because it means my Inca Trail trip is a bit closer. Of course, this is Bolivia, so nothing ever goes to plan - after delays and cancelled flights and more delays, I´m finally back up here and now face a mad dash to Cuzco on a slightly altitude-acclimatising digestive system. This should be fun...