I got back from the Inca Trail last night and am still somewhere between floating on a complete high, on another planet because of how incredible the whole experience was, and zombied out with tiredness! But I will just say this: after 8 years or so of dreaming about doing this, the expectations and build-up did not let me down one bit. There was no point when I wanted to be anywhere else (except, perhaps, half way up Dead Woman´s Pass when the only other place I wanted to be was the top!) and at pretty much every step I could not wipe the smile off my face for how much I loved every single second. It was better than I ever could have hoped and I am so thrilled I´ve done it, so PROUD I´ve done it, and utterly overcome by every experience from the last 4 days.

So...day 1, I was collected from my hostel at about 5.45 by Victor, our main guide, and got on the bus for the journey to Ollantaytambo where we were to have breakfast before hitting the trail. On the bus and over breakfast I met my group - 3 Canadians (2 girls Brooke and Colleen, 1 guy Mike, just out of university), another Canadian older guy (Gary, 57), a French couple (Anna and Olivier, late 20s), 3 English guys (Ted 25, Mark 24 and Richard 27) and 2 Aussie couples (Andy and Caz, 34 and 30, and Rosina and Chris, 24 and 25). I´d met Andy and Caz on my bus from La Paz to Puno, so it was lovely to see them again. And nice to have a familiar face! The first day of hiking was gorgeous - 6 hours or so, and very beautiful, plus we were blessed with scorching sunshine and a light breeze - really lovely trekking weather. I was quite bowled over with the service - we were given snacks for the morning, but when we stopped for lunch, I was expecting - and looking forward to - a sandwich on a tarpaulin...not the 3 course meal we had in a tent! Avocado Rellena (avocado stuffed with a sort of Russian salad), asparagus soup and grilled trout and veggies!

After lunch the trail led us to the first Inca remain - I was blown away. This is why you do the Inca Trail - it´s not just about it being the best way to get to Machu Picchu (which it undeniably is) - it´s about seeing everything on the way, building up to it, learning about Inca history and seeing the most beautiful parts of this bit of Peru. We continued to campsite number one, absolutely beautiful with a view over snowcapped mountains, and played cards until supper, putting on layer after layer of clothes as the sun dropped in the sky. An amazing dinner was followed by an early night (8.30 - pathetic!) but much needed after the day´s hiking and a 4.30 start!

Day 2 was the killer. We awoke at 5 (with cups of tea brought to our tents by the porters!) to an overcast day, which was a blessing as we had some serious walking to do. It was only about 12 k, and only about another 7 hours, but it was up to the highest point of the trail at 4,200m! Every time you round a corner expecting to see the summit - all you see is another lung-bursting flight of steps! A real killer. Victor decided we should do the walking in the morning - all of it - so we´d reach the 2nd campsite at about 3 for a late lunch. So we started at about 7 with snacks in our bags and went. Up. For about 4 1/2 hours. When we reached the 2nd meeting point I just collapsed on the grass by the creek, exhausted - and fully aware I still had the most difficult bit to go. The sun had risen properly by this point, but as we continued up the Andean mists started rolling in, and the temperature DROPPED. It was SO cold - and there we were walking in tees and light jumpers, far too sweaty and knackered to bother to put on any more clothes! At one point the drop-off on the side of the path just gave way to white cloud-soup - you couldn´t see more than 10 metres in front of you, which was probably something of a blessing! The last 1km or so up to the summit was really painful - I was counting my steps and stopping every 100 to have a breather, but as I got near the top and Victor, Hubert (the assistant guide) and those in the group already there started encouraging me, I pretty much ran up the last 50m! It was such a satisfying feeling, and I only needed about 10 mins to rest up and recover (and freeze my socks off) before heading off again feeling refreshed and ready for the 2 hours downhill. That was SO much easier to begin with, starting in rain but with layers being peeled off as I descended. It was really beautiful as well, and a proper Inca path - i.e. not government restored - and it´s incredible to be walking on an ancient highway that is so well preserved. The scenery was spectacular, but the downhill soon got hard - thos Inca steps take it out of your joints! We reached the campsite, bolted another fab lunch, and went for a well-deserved siesta. Or at least we were supposed to - I decided to have a showed (practically ice, the coldest shower I´ve EVER had!) and was so cold and woken up by it that I spent the 2 of the 3 hours nattering at Richard, who I was sharing a tent with, and goodness he must have been so relieved when tiredness finally got the better of me! After siesta, it was teatime, card playing time, and supper - which I didn´t feel I entirely deserved, but hey! We worked out we´d spent more time at the table than walking that day - but by bedtime it didn´t feel like it. It was probably the most physically demanding thing I´ve ever done. So a good night´s sleep was called for, but unfortunately it was TOO BLOODY COLD to get more than about 4 hours!

So onto day 3 - probably my favourite. It was about 9 hours´ long between campsites, but peppered with some stunning Inca remains - you´ll have to look at the photos. Also we went down from the Andean heights into the cloudforest, which made for warmer trekking and stunning vegetation. By this day, after yesterday´s downhill, my knee was rather b*****ed. BUT we were fantastically lucky - the 3 Canadians had just graduated in physiotherapy, plus Andy is a physio with 10 years´ or so experience, so he had a look at it for me! In a way hearing that there was nothing he could do was great because I had no choice but to keep going - exactly what I did!

By the end of day 3, inspiring Inca remains notwithstanding, we were pooped and fully ready for the luxuries of Winay Wayna campsite, which including HOT SHOWERS and BEER. We were still in bed at about 8, after my ritual Jamaican rum nightcap with Andy and Caz (to warm the cockles of course)...and we were far too aware that in order to be first to the checkpoint, first on the trail and first to Machu Picchu the next day, we had a 3.30 wake up call. Pancakes at 4 didn´t exactly sit well, but it was all worth it because we were first in line at the checkpoint when it opened at 5.30, and managed to complete to last 2 hours of the trail in 1! That last bit was amazing, walking in the early morning mist (hoping it would clear when we got to MP - it didn´t!) and rounding each corner to find not MP, but more beauty. We past the last few Inca remains, climbed some horrendously steep steps (almost hands and knees job) and for once my heart was beating faster and faster with anticipation not exhaustion! The feeling when you hit the slopes of the to of MP is exhiliarating - no matter that we couldn´t actually SEE the site, knowing we´d got there was amazing. We spent the next 5 hours wandering around exploring, Victor gave us an amazing 2 hour tour, and the mists lifted enough to get the "money shot" of MP from the top. It´s such an incredible place, so hard to believe it really exists even when you see it. But after 5 hours and many more tourists, most of us were pretty spent. Andy, Caz, Rosina and I hit the coffee shop for a cuppa, the Canadians and the English lads went to the hot springs in Aguas Calientes, the Frenchies did not much as they had the rest of the day to explore and wanted to make sure they said goodbye to all of us, and Chris and Gary got far too energetic and hiked to the top of the smaller of the mountains. Nutters. We reconvened for lunch with our guides, and then pootled back to Cuzco on train and bus, leaving behind the best 4 days of my life. Last night we all met up for a lovely supper, and after a good night´s sleep, I´m about to go and meet them again for guinea pig lunch!

I loved the walking. I´m now a bonafide, certified, hiking/tramping/walking/trekking/whatever it´s called in whichever country I´m in addict and I cannot WAIT for Kili. I was never at the back of the group, but most often somewhere in the middle, either walking with Caz or on my own. And walking on my own was blissful. I had time to take in everything and just to be in my own thoughts, I can´t quite describe it without sounding like a loser, a loner or a nutter so you´ll just have to take my word for it. And we were so lucky. Our porters were amazing, our cook was supreme, the group got on so well and we all enjoyed each other´s company so so much, but probably what really made it was our guides. The were undoubtedly the best of all the groups - even other people agreed with that. They had a great relationship with each other, lots of banter and play fighting, and Victor (about 5 years older than Hubert) called Hubert Cheeky Monkey - Victor was of course Cheeky Monkey No 1. And they are SO passionate and knowledgeable about the trail and the sites - I´ve learnt so much. And as for our group - well Andy and Caz are going to be my people on the ground in Sydney (Caz is taking me shopping! And Andy is thrilled that he´ll have a Pommie to bash during the 5th test!) and I have an invitation to visit Toronto whenever I want.

It was the experience of my lifetime. I can´t quite believe that in the next 5 months anything will come close...but I´m prepared to be proved wrong!