Guest Writer: Elizabeth Fillmore

The Whitsunday Islands 15th to 24th February 2008

About 12 months ago Alex announced she had had a good idea! Rather ominous! 'While we are in Australia we want to sail round the Whitsundays but rather than go on a cruise boat, why don't you come out and we could charter a boat and all sail round together?' So the seed was set and we duly organised a four and a half week trip to the Southern Hemisphere including an 8 day bare boat charter in the Whitsundays after visiting Guy in Auckland for a week and before visiting Tim's sister, Penny (who we hadn't seen for 17 years) on Kangaroo Island.

Guy decided he would also like to join us and so we all looked forward to a family reunion at Abel Point Marina in Ailee Beach on Friday 15 February when we could stay on the boat overnight ready for an early briefing the next morning before setting sail for 8 days in crystal clear blue green waters renowned for its snorkelling, array of fishes and brightly coloured coral and their white beaches. Perfect!

Things started to not quite go to plan when we arrived in Brisbane airport to find our flight to Proserpine (1/2hr from Airlee Beach) was not listed and on enquiry we found out that nearby Mackay had severe flooding and they were unsure whether any flights would be possible into Proserpine. We then had a text from Alex to say they were on route from Cairns but the driver was unsure if he could make it to Airlee Beach due to flooding. However the flight was able to set off and the coach did make it to Airlee Beach which was very lucky as Mackay was declared a state of emergency and the tropical cyclone then moved on to Townsville. Our transfer bus driver informed us that a storm on the previous Monday had either sunk or washed ashore 40 yachts. As we approached Abel Point Marina we saw the sorry sight of wrecks being craned out of the water and being carted off on lorries.

Alex and Andrew had managed to get enough provisions for Saturday breakfast along with some beer and Pimms and we were soon enjoying these aboard our Bavaria 36 foot yacht, 'Greenwich'. We later strolled into the town and enjoyed our first meal at Jamaica Joes and were able to catch up on the last few months since we had all been together.

Saturday dawned bright and dry but at our 8.30 briefing it was confirmed that there were gale warnings for the area and we would have to stay in the marina that evening instead of heading for one of the islands. While the weather was reasonable we decided that after hiring our stinger wetsuits and snorkelling gear we would go out for our first sail and delay getting in our provisions until later in the day. We enjoyed our 2 hour sail in light, benign conditions and wondered if the gale forecast was correct. While heading in, rain clouds approached and we were thoroughly soaked by the time we moored. We soon discovered that there were a few leaks down below and Guy and Andrew set about sealing them with duck tape. Tim Elizabeth and Alex set off to get the provisions so that if the gale warnings were lifted we would be ready to leave first thing on Sunday. We rang for a taxi at 4.30 and tried to shelter from the rain, which by now was coming down in stair-rods. We rang again and were assured it was on its way and meanwhile watched the water pouring down the road through the marina entrance. The gale warnings were by now becoming believable. Still no taxi by 5.20 and as the shops closed at 5.30 we cancelled the taxi and waded back to the boat through 3 inches of water. Guy and Andrew were amazed and amused that we had taken so long and got so wet and still no shopping done! At least the leaks into the boat were getting less!

After showering we set off for the town and the yellow 'macs' provided with the boat were appreciated, having initially been shunned, as the rain was still as heavy. Andrew, Guy and Elizabeth stepped off the boat first and hurried to shelter at the marina entrance. It took a long time for Alex and Tim to join us and just as we were going back to find them they came into sight, Tim looking even wetter than the rest of us. We had had a man overboard without setting sail!! Our captain had stepped off the boat and mistaken a strip of water alongside the walkway as the walkway and disappeared under water! (It was dark with monsoon rain- Tim). Another shower was called for and Tim met us ½ hr later in the very quiet town for another meal at Jamaica Joes.

The torrential rain and strong winds continued overnight and through Sunday. With gale warnings and little visibility we were once again held in the marina. Not trusting a taxi to turn up in the continuing rain we decided to hire a car for the day and all ventured to the shopping centre in it. Later we had a trip down the coast to Shute Harbour and then used the car to go out for supper at Cactus Jacks, a very good Mexican restaurant which again was very quiet with few people venturing out in the conditions.

Monday saw little change - gale warnings, heavy rain, poor visibility and so we were not surprised to hear we still had to stay in harbour. The charter company were apologetic but unable to suggest many activities, as there is rarely any need for them. They could not remember having such a long period of sustained rain! They provided us with a selection of DVD's, which we could watch on the TV of a nearby 42 ft yacht, which became our dayboat for the day. Our evening sojourn into the town resulted in supper at Hoggs Breath Café.

On waking on Tuesday, blue sky was seen through the hatches and visibility was good. We were free to leave! We had a good sail in 22 knots of breeze with 2 reefs in the main and just 1/3 of the jib and reached Nara Inlet on Hook Island where we were soon greeted by a sulphur crested cockatoo on our spreaders. Andrew coped well with the sailing, helming for quite a time and only lying down towards the end. The storms had churned up the water, which had a muddy brown appearance rather than the expected clear blue green. We all set off in the rubber tender to view the waterfall and walk up to some caves with Aboriginal drawings. This was possibly a mistake for those of us that mosquitoes enjoy! The day was rounded off by a BBQ on the boat with slight improvisations as the shopping centre on Sunday was devoid of certain items such as bread and potatoes, which could not be delivered due to the adverse weather conditions.

On Wednesday the winds were light and so we motored to Hook Passage, then sailed through the Passage and round Border Island in 15 to 20 knots of breeze with full sails. We then motored into Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island, anchored and took the tender to the beach - a beautiful 12 mile stretch of white sand. We motored to Chalkie Bay on Haslewood Island for our overnight anchorage where we spotted a couple of turtles and had an excellent view of the sunset over Whitehaven Beach while having another BBQ aboard. Although the waters were clearing when Andrew and Guy went snorkelling they could only see each other when less than a metre apart.

By Thursday it was time to re-provision and so we motored to Hamilton Marina to top up the water tanks, electricity and food supplies and take a welcome shower. After a walk round the town and lunch at the Yacht Club we motor sailed to Cid Island and moored in Homestead Bay for a pasta supper.

The next day we motor-sailed up Hook Passage and then sailed up the East side of Hook Island in 5 to 10 knots of breeze and were delighted to see dolphins on the way. The sea was much clearer by now and on anchoring at Manta Ray Bay (renowned for good snorkelling) we were surrounded by fish both large and small. We all took the opportunity to snorkel and saw many different fish and types of coral. Guy swam with a turtle and later we spotted dolphins again and a shoal of flying fish which sped past the boat.

Saturday, the final day of sailing, came all too soon and we motored past Butterfly Bay and round the exclusive Haymen Island and snorkelled off a private beach. The tide was strong and the coral deeper and so it was not as good as the previous day but Alex Andrew and Guy were able to dive down and see much more than ourselves. We then had our last motor sail back to Abel Point Marina having covered a total distance of 99 nautical miles in the five days. Cactus Jacks was voted as the restaurant for our final supper and we were all surprised to see the difference in Airlee Beach, which was so much more vibrant in the warm dry atmosphere compared with the earlier part of the week.

It was sad to say our goodbyes on Sunday with us heading for Kangaroo Island, Guy for Auckland and Alex and Andrew for Bunderberg. But it had been a really good week and indeed it had been a good idea of Alex's 12 months ago! It was good to share a small part of their travelling time with them.

Tim & Elizabeth