We were outside Milford Sound by breakfast time. A very overcast day, no wind, dry, about 18C. At least it wasn't raining and the cloud was not too low. It is not unusual for cruise ships to be unable to enter the Sound as it is very narrow and in low visibility it would be dangerous. In fact, it is what we would call a glacial fjord. The water is very deep, around 300m and the sides are very steep. It is 14km long and surrounded by the wilderness of the Glacier National Park of South Island, New Zealand. There is no overnight accommodation within the fjord and people like the water pilots travel in every day. This means that the surroundings are pretty much unchanged and we see it much as Captain Cook did when he discovered it which is a sobering thought.

We found two chairs on the port side of the promenade deck and sat there for the next two and a half hours while the ship made a slow progress up one side and then down the other. It was very narrow with a very sharp bend to the left just inside the entrance which hides the fjord from the sea. The sides are covered in green trees up to about 3000m. A lot of wildlife lives in Milford Sound: various sorts of seals; two types of dolphin; tuna; albatross. We saw some seals and some distant dolphins but it was very much second fiddle to the scenery which was spectacular.

There were some low whispy clouds at some points which added to the rather mysterious look of the place and very very many waterfalls. Milford Sound is one of the wettest places on earth. An incredible amount of rain falls here. 2400 inches a year. Incredible. This results in huge numbers of waterfalls and water cascades. It was not raining (miraculously) as we travelled through so we just saw the perhaps 10-12 waterfalls that are permanently flowing. We could see the white streaks of bare rock where the rainfall waterfalls would be though. There were several groups of Kayakers out around the edges of the fjord. That would also be a spectacular way to see it.

At one point we could see up into the highest point of the surrounding mountains where there is still glacial ice visible, thousands of years old. We could see it, rather blue, on the mountain tops.

So, we were back out in the open sea by lunchtime, heading south and around the bottom of South Island to arrive in Dunedin tomorrow morning. Another beautiful visit to a very remote place that would have been very hard to see unless on a sea voyage like this.

In art today we drew a section of a trumpet vine. Quite pleased with the result. We now have several shore days ahead and after Wellington when art starts again we are having a portrait workshop where we will start work on a series of portraits. I can't imagine being successful at that but who knows…..

We have received an invitation to form a group to present a 20 minute theatrical poem as part of the Entertainment Show scheduled towards the end of the trip. We got the poem script this afternoon and had a look. It's quite funny. A bit like a modern version of Albert and the Lion, except this is about a woman with a huge bum who makes it as a celeb in Las Vegas and then pairs up with a man with exceptionally long feet…. Not entirely sure….. will have to read it again…..

Tonight Bob and I had dinner in GlassHouse, the wine bar/restaurant devised by Olly Someone who is on tv a lot talking about wine. Kind of chubby. Blond hair. You know who I mean. We've sort of put it off as it is a new venture on board and no one ever seems to be in there, probably because you have to pay for the food. Anyway, we gave it a go. I had a wine flight of 3 glasses of exceptionally interesting wines - full glasses for £10.95 - good value. Then Bob and I shared 3 small plates as starters: there was lots of choice but we both liked the sound of the tempura king prawns with dipping sauce so we had 2 of those and then a cerviche of see bass with chilli and sweet potato salad. It was all delicious especially the king prawns which were possibly the largest I have ever had. More like lobster. Then just to be boring we chose the same main which was 3 sliders: Scottish beef; venison and crab all served in little brioche buns with trimmings, salad and fries. The beef and venison were amazing. Not so keen on the crab because it was actually a crab cake in a bun which I should have foreseen but I was craving a more "crabby" experience akin to a crab roll… Then Bob had a dessert which was a chocolate and honeycomb cannelloni with vanilla ice cream, chocolate mouse and cream. I tasted it. Heavenly and much more chocolaty than I had expected which made me like it more. Then we had a massive cheese plate with all sorts of cheese, biscuits, raisin bread and quince jelly and fruit. YIKIEs It cost £30 which was quite a lot but I suppose really not so much as it included the three glasses of wine and a beer for Bob.

Then we had to have a brisk stride around the deck to walk that off, which we did instead of going to the pub quiz. It was freezing as the ship had really started to steam ahead. Turned in and had coffee and brandy in the cabin. We get a duty free voucher each per sector which allows us to buy a bottle of spirits at very reduced price. So we have a litre bottle of Courvoisier for £20 and a litre of Baileys for £15. Not bad value and nice to end the evening with.

Tomorrow we touch land in South Island, New Zealand for 3 days. Very good trips lined up and so much looking forward to it. Praying for clear weather for the next two days so we can see the mountains and scenery.