After we got back to Dar from Zanzibar we booked ourselves on a bus up to Msamwbeni in Kenya. Despite getting off the coach too early and having to walk 6km to the place we were staying (which gave Alice massive blisters!) we got there fine. We stayed at a house called Jinchini right on the beach. A friend of mine (Jack) from the time I spent working in a PR company, Pat Orr, kindly lent us the house for free. It's a stunning place: the swimming pool has a resident troupe of Monkeys around it; there is a cook, two house boys and security guards that wander around with bows and arrows (though there is absolutely no crime in the village); the sea is 30ft from the veranda, the beach is completely deserted and it also has three separate reefs just a few hundred meters off shore. We took a dhow out with Captain Ali, the guy who runs the local sea turtle conservation group, to spend a couple of hours snorkeling on the reef - while not as colourful as Sharm there are still plenty of fish and interesting coral and it only cost us three pounds each. We had fresh lobster to eat and also visited the local Aids orphanage (guilt tripped into visiting by its owner who turned up at the house one day). We spent five days at the house, discovering on the last day that a scorpion had been living in the pile of clothes we left on the floor!