Si Phan Don and on and on.

Though I know it is all very relative, traveling can on some days be quite stressful. Constantly on the move, sometimes it feels like everyone is trying to rip you off and buses are i'm convinced inherently evil, (show me one happy bus driver and I'll show you 50 psychotic maniacs). Si phan don was not one of those occasions.

It is near the southern Laos border where the mighty Mekong temporally splits into many different small channels before bimbling it's way south and is pretty idyllic particularly on Dong Khone where we stayed. At one point having desuaded Kirst from kayaking and postponed cycling for an afternoon, I concluded that from my hammock, cool beerlao in hand costing about 80p and the mekong meandering in sight to the tune of seasick steve on my Ipod that it was all not so bad after all eh!

That said two and a half months in and still sweating just as much, I'm actually looking forward to overcast skies in Australia and the heavenly prospect of wearing a jumper! With this relaxed attitude we headed into cambodia and to Phnom Phen via Kratie and from there to learn about the Khmer rouge and so on. Upsetting but important is how I would summarise it, discussion for another time perhaps... We did discover a new extreme sportof cycling in Phnom Phen traffic, which is not for faint hearted... the rules are thus.

Rule 1: Everyone is not trying to kill you no matter how much it appears that way.

Rule 2: Things will come from all directions at all times.

Rule 3: Dual carriage ways are optional, see Rule 2

Rule 4: Merging is the key and this can again happen from any direction at any speed at any time. (only Falangs get annoyed at this).

Rule 5: Bus beats car, car beats tuk tuk, tuk tuk beat scooter, Bicycle beats jack all!

Rule 6: do not think...Feeeel!

As and addition one should note that no cambodian scooter works unless you are holding a baby whilst on your mobile phone... texting.

That's about all you need to know, now off you go and have fun now!

We then made our way south to Kampot to keep a promise we made to some Aussie friends, lots to see round there including a spooky abandoned french hill station which to kirst and I felt a bit like being at work due to it's unoccupied buildings... well apart from all the bullet holes and the jungle and the mountain and all that. The following day we again braved the roads on a scooter. It was a good day and kirsts instructions have lessened since the last time, so much so that she failed to spot the huge elephant in the road which I skillfully avoided. This one was nonchalantly collecting recycling and even crossing his back legs at one point in the manner of some one leaning on a lamp post. I like to think he was called Fonzy.

From kampot we headed to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat . I'm not even going to try to describe it but will say that it is quite cheap and truly astounding so get there if you can at some point. simple as that.

Our last stopping point in Cambodia is Battabang before we depart for Bangkok. We decided to get here by 6 hour boat via the Tonle sap lake as opposed to 3 hour bus ride. It was a big mistake as it took 12 hours and was successful in fulfilling every requirement of a much used saying. The trip took us via various sand banks and groundings as well as two floating villages; one on the lake; ad one on the river where the river provided all for the people... food, washing facility.......and importantly here toilet outlet...Whilst entering the mouth of the 's***y creek' with out even a smidgen of irony the Prop Shaft on the Boat broke ( thats the paddle in this analogy folks!) 10 hours later we are here and so for a change found a nice hotel to make the badness go away.

anyway to all, as we head onwards to Bangkok

love you all long time!

Ian and Kirst