Hi everyone,

The week spent at Rai Seang Arun was really good for me, having been on the move for what feels like a lifetime I needed to stop for a while and relax. I have worked in the fields with the locals harvesting rice, totally different to what I expected, taken a push bike for a ride, read a book on Buddhism and completely unwound. The only negative in all this was that I managed to unwind to such a degree that I picked up a bug for which I had no medication. I have the best medical kit in the world with syringes, needles, IV lead, all sorts of potions, malaria tablets and the like in fact enough to rival a private hospital but no asprin or anything simple.

Khun Mam is here to take me to the Golden Triangle so I am going to shake a leg and get on with it. I had my first experience of driving in Thailand today when I drove a truck type pick-up all the way to the Triangle and back. Mam sat in the front just to give me a bit of street cred, but it would have been increased no end if I'd had a dozen farm workers hanging off the back, all their shopping and a couple of chickens as well!

We visited the Hall of Opium which is very well set out and presents 5000 years of opium use aound the World, having never grown it for export, the British do appear to have been dealing in it for a very long time and back in the 1800's it was us who used it to purchase tea from the Chinese. They were obviuosly a bit more shrewd in that they recognised the potential problems caused by opium abuse and refused to trade with it. Not to be deterred the British forced it upon the Chinese and this eventually led to war, we seem to have good at that sort of thing!

The Golden Triangle is really interesting and a lot of effort has been made on the part of the Government and the Royal Family to lead farmers away from opium growing, the main crop in the north is now coffee which will do as my drug of choice.

Back at Rai Seang Arun my journey continues to throw me together with really interesting people, take Jan and Ellen for example. Here was a young at heart retired couple from Holland who are on a wonderful adventure. Having visited Thailand many times in the past, they found a German carrier who would transport their beloved Dutch bikes to Thailand for them to tour the Northern Provinces. We just happened to be spending the evening at the same location and they kindly invited me to join them at their table for supper. We shared a great evening together chatting over dinner and into the mid-evening. Their's is a great way to see this area because you see so much more by travelling just that little bit slower and you experience much more contact with the locals to whom you are not only a novelty but also something of genuine interest. Ellen related a story to me when on the previous day they had riden past a school, all the children waved and said 'hello'. We all agreed that if a Thai couple had riden past a school in England or Holland they may not have got the same reaction or welcome. I had a lovely evening with their company so thank Jan and Ellen and by the way, I know you used the guest house in Chiang Rai. Nong was so pleased you went there and told me all about you as soon as I arrived back there.

Over the next couple of days I continued pottering around and visited a few local villages by push bike, it was quite amusing because most of the visitors to Rai Seang Arun are clearly Thai or local Asain tourists, therefore, they do not need such large bikes. I cycled an intersting 32K with my knees almost to my chest, it was quite a laugh though and caused varying amounts of amusement amongst the locals I encountered along the way.

The following 3 days were not so good as I had picked up some kind of bug and was quite unwell, I had been really cold and was very surprised to see that the outside temperature was 25 degrees. I was freezing so I took myself off to bed and stayed there for nearly 24 hours spending the time alternating between furness hot and shivering cold. I was somewhat better on the day that I left but far from perfect which was a shame as I had enjoyed a brilliant time and have memories which will take a long time to fade. I will forever remember the kindness and concern of the staff who are without question some of the finest people you will ever meet, but the majesty of the surrounding hills sillhoetted by the full moon when I arrived, remains the highlight of my stay. I will never forget witnessing its unbelievable beauty. So I left Rai Seang Arun for the last time in company with a couple flying back to Bangkok from Chaing Rai airport. Having dropped them off I was taken to Bann Rub Aroon which has such a homely feel about it that I felt instantly at ease When Nong arrived I told her of my ailments and was informed that Dr Sarah was in residence dso my luck held out once more and within a short time I had the name of some incredibly good tablets and had picked them up from Boots the chemist - yes you read that correctly - Boots the chemist!

Difference here is that you just buy as many tablets as you wish so I got some more, just in case. A day later I was fine and fancied another cycle ride. Nong has some reallly good bikes and they are a generous size. I rode for half a day to visit Wat Long Khon. This is another Temple but with aa difference. It ia all white with mirrored glass to highlightthe designand intricate detail. It is intersting but you question Why?! In the mainTemple there is a massive image of Buddha which is ver impressive and what you would expect, however, turn around and you are confronted with what I can only describe as surrealist art. Imagine an Album cover from the 70's bands like Yes or Tangerine Dream, or Pink Floyd or even a Dahli image, you will begin to understand the image which you see.Now believe this or not incorporated within this are images of Christopher Reeve as Superman, Keano Reeve as Neo? out of Matrix, the space shuttle, sky lab, B52's raining bombs, the Twin Towers being hit, nuclear weapons and numerous other Western images. Make of it what you will but I was really amazed to see this inside a Buddhist temple. However, I now have to qualify this because I have seen a film about the bombing of Laos and Temples there do depict atricious behaviou committed by both sides during the war, so perhaps I am not as surprised as I thought.

The area as a whole seemed a little bit unnecessary, a bit Essex girl meets Thailand, Dr Sarah and I were discussing it later and I commented that as sson as I saw it I thought of Victoruia Beckham, white and thin. Sarah described it as 'kitch', I agree. So for me it will remain Wat Kitch Vic Beckham!

I was only only in Chiang Ria for 3 days but the purpose was to have a really good look at Wat Phra Kaew, the home of The Emerald Buddha. Now this is a proper Temple, with heretage! The visit was important for me as I have seen the original Emerald Buddha in Bangkok at Wat Phra Sri Ratanasadaram in the Grand Palace. The reason for this is the the Buddha is ancient history having been located variously in Cambodia, The Mangrai Kingdon (Now Northern Thailand) and was taken from Cambodia to Chaing Rai hundreds of years ago. In 1434 a lightening bold struck the old Temple, Wat Pa Yiah, and revealed the Buddha it was immediately reveared the Temple was renamed Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) the Buddha taken Banagkok as part of the National heretage collection. The Buddha you see today is a replica and made from Jade which was sourced from Canada of all places.

The museum next the the temple is only about ten years old but has been cleverly constructed from concrete and covered with hardwood to mirror the architecture of its surroundings. It houses many relice and was dfinately one of the most impressive places I have visited. Anyone coming to Chiang Ria is recommended to visit it is totally worth the effort.

Chiang Ria at night is a lot quieter than many places but is a personal place somewhere you can be a person and not just a number. The night market is lively and offers the chance to buy local clothing and crafts much more cheaply than in Bangkok. The food stalls sell everything from freshly squeezed orange to noodles and BBQ chicken. The smells and aromas hit you from all sides and I could quite easily go from one stall to another just sampling the various delights on offer. One thing you can get ids dried and sweetened fruits, everything from papaya to kiwi fruit, cherries to banana. Also nibbles like peanut brittle but set in honey, great but far too moorish. Clothes are great value too but the Sunday Market is exceptioonal and when I've had something to drink I will tell you more.

See you soon,

Chris