Just wrote out a huge essay for you and the computer deleted it... so this will probably be less detailed!!

Our last few days in Cambodia were a bit of a nightmare... returning to Phnom Penh from Ratanakiri included a very early start, and initially the bus was making good time, until it had a puncture and being Cambodia the spare tyre was also unusable! After hours of mechanics trying at Cambodian pace to fix the problem, using the same bald tyres and just replacing the inner tubing, we were on our way. Until we reached 20 km form the city where the bus ubruptly stopped, and we were told that it couldnt go further due to the water festival in the city, and we would have to pay for a tuk tuk- something the bus company had failed to tell us about all day, and when we booked the tickets! Not happy!!

The next bus was almost as bad!! We were sold tickets to reach 4000 islands in Laos in one day- changing buses at Stung Treng (Cambodia side)- on arriving here, there was no bus to change to, and we were told we had to stay the night and leave in the monring- meaning we would overstay our visas. in the morning, after a two hour delay the journey was fairly straightforward, only stopping to cross the border; wake the Laos police up from their hammocks to stamp our passports; and for the minibus to stop as Will and Max (a German guy we've been travelling with) wanted to ride on the roof- I wasnt allowed- 'men only'!!

4000 islands is where the Mekong river is really wide, with lots of islands, although not actually 4000. We stayed on Don Det. There's not much to do here- except swing in hammocks and read. We learned the Laos way of life- relaxing!! And the curfew, where everything shuts around half 10 or 11 at night and everyone is pretty much put to bed- in the cities you can stay out at clubs, but I think you sometimes have to pay the guesthouse more to let you back in after half 11!! We stayed in a basic bungalow with just a bed, mosquito net and hammocks.

We were invited by locals to a bbq on our last night here- a really strange cultural experience. They had a bonfire, despite the heat, and ordered two ducks from a farmer. These arrived alive, and were checked over by the local boys, before they were sent back as they were 'no good' we didn't really understand what was no good about them but I was quite relieved as I thought they were about to kill them right there. They cooked one fish, and put it in front of the four Westerners, insisting that we try it first- we felt a bit uncomfortable, as they were all hungry, but didnt want to be rude, so tried a bit and then everyone tucked in. The bakery was also a highlight of Don Det!!

We headed to Pakse- a city with not much happening! And arranged motos for the following day- we rented two (one for us and one for Max) for two days to explore the Bolvean Plateau- with huge waterfalls and dusty roads, and local children running to the road to wave and say 'Sabady'. We stayed in a really uncomfortable bungalow, before heading back to Pakse the following day- playing who could make the fuel last longest and not put more in before we gave the bikes back.

We took the night bus to Vientiane the same evening- much more comfortable and posh than in Vietnam, but still no sleep! Vientiane is a tiny capital- only 200,000 people, and feels empty!! Spent ages hunting for a room, having to wait for about 6 hours for a room. Today we queued for 4 hours for our Thai visas, which we collect tomorrow before heading further north in Laos- planning to cross to Thailand around the 10th December- in time to get some beach time before meeting in Bangkok around christmas!!

Love to all, sorry its a bit brief- was soooo long before!! Will update soon xxx