Note to self: if chinese people fussing over your baby and telling you are doing everything wrong are driving you crazy, do not confine yourself in a train carriage with them for 18hrs! Isaac had a great time whereas I wanted to throw everybody out of the window! Funnily nobody told us Isaac wasn't wearing enough despite the effective air conditioning that made it significantly colder than anywhere else we'd been! This time, we were just terrible parents for taking him on a train with air conditioning! Admittedly we did have top bunk tickets (no others left) that weren't ideal but nobody seemed concerned enough to actually offer up their bottom bunk - not very reminiscent of the China I knew and loved.
The carriage was full of the loud harsh voices of an over excited tour group, gamblers and vendors. In the old days this wouldn't have bothered me in the slightest but this time it all seemed like a deliberate conspiracy to upset my baby (who actually screamed much less than the chinese ladies!) The journey was also very bumpy.
It was a relief when we eventually arrived in Kunming. We hadn't booked any accommodation as my husband had banned me from booking in advance, convinced there would be some cheap toots at the station. Though it seems this is another thing that's disappeared in china. Also there were no snack trolleys on the train apart from the overly priced official ones. We wandered around for accommodation. Had a breakthrough moment with my hubby when I said I felt unsafe in the dodgy appartment he found. He actually listened and booked us into a normal hotel even though it was 100rmb more! Have also nagged him into flying back to chengdu. I'm sure his dad thinks I'm some awful demanding wife but if it means get me and Isaac out of 9hrs in bus and another 18 on the train is worth it!
Kunming is still a great city and we appreciated it from the Hump hostel, making the most of their wifi. Weather was rather strange. We were hit by an attack of hailstones. We ran for cover but unfortunately ended up huddled up next to the Chou (smelly) dofu woman!