After our short break in Barritz you could say au revoir to the so-called rested legs ... here come some hills!The first of many located on the French/Spainish border, 455m ascent over 9klms before free-wheeling into San Sebastian (proven to be quite a small climb in comparison to the subsequent climbs in this stage but at the time 'huge'). On arriving in San Sebastian we were greeted by a friendly German fellow enquiring on what language we spoke and if we needed any help? Well ... Aike proceeded to show us to our pension, accompany us to the better bars in the Old Quarter and advise us on which pintxos to sample; even give us info and maps on the best areas in the Basque region. Helpful beyond belief! We found San Sebastian so appealling that we decided to stay an extra day to relax on the beach, like so many of the locals. Peculiar to see the numbers at the beach swell during siesta with workers arriving directly from their employment to undress, sunbathe, redress and disappear. Caught up one final time with Aike to say farewell and thank him for his boundless help, and to also meet his lovely Basque girlfriend Esther and daughter Alaia. To our surprise they sprung an unexpected dinner invitation - delightfully treated to Quiche Lorraine "Aike style" (one for the cook book). Eventually drew ourselves away from San Sebastian heading up Mt Igeldo to gaze over La Concha Bay one final time. Following the advise our new Basque friends we remained on the coast passing through many small fishing villages and beautiful cove beches before turning inland to visit a magical painted forest - you have to see it to believe it. On to Bilbao and a visit to the Guggenheim Museum, awesome! While attempting to find a campsite open for business (seems like Spain only operates between June & Sept) we ended up riding alongside a crystal clear river into the Picos de Europa region .. via a strenuous detour .. stopping at the village of Arenas de Cabrales - God's country! Anyone into walking or mouldy cheese, this is the place to come. The most spectacular landscape to date with snow capped peaks reaching into the heavens and low clouds. Headed back to the coastline for a stretch before turning inland again towards the climax point of the pilgrim's trail, Santiago de Compostela. Distance to date: 2890klms