We are staying two nights in Bologna as a walk down memory lane for Chris who studied here in a university exchange program over 15 years ago. He says it is coming back to him now, the familiar places, streets and culture and remembering why he loves this city. Bologna is unlike any of the other towns we have been to. It is not touristy and is rougher around the edges with its university crowds and punkish culture. Graffiti art is big here and political messages are sprayed on the trains, building doors and walls here. Down with Trump is a message I've seen often, and Kill the Rich!
The signature portico's arch their way thru the city and I appreciate walking on the marble underneath them in the shade where it is cooler. There are hundreds of these tall arches practically on every street. We have walked our way thru different cobblestone neighbourhoods with delightful treasures to be discovered: food here is big! It is a culinary delight and we drooled over the hams hanging in Windows, cheese rounds bigger than in my dreams, cured sausages and all sorts of tasty treats in jars and bottles with truffles and local oils, vinegars and fruits. It is incredible and we want to bring it all home. We have savoured charcuterie boards with local cheeses, and Bologna the sandwich meat that has this towns namesake (but here is better than you can imagine) along with the local wine. And we have enjoyed the gelato, espresso and cappuccino with to die for fresh baked pastries. You would think we were eating all the time, but we are working it off walking miles and miles each day.
We had a moment of excitement as we stumbled upon the main square with a large crowd looking up at a parachuter sailing down to land in the town square. I realized that looking closer it was a scene being shot from Masterchef Italy and there were two teams in red and blue aprons awaiting the winning announcement from cooking earlier that day. The parachuter had a blue flag that shot out of her foot and the blue team went wild as she landed. At the centre stood four Italian judges...Joe Bastianich was one of them! We know him from Masterchef USA and the owner of several big restaurants. After the shoot he was escorted out of the square and we realized he had a body double who looked incredibly like him. Those Italians went wild as they were escorted thru and the locals became like paparazzi shooting selfies with the Stars.
We explored many old churches and took in the differences from one church to the next, even sitting to listen to a Cardinal preach with passion on a Tuesday morning. The escape from the heat is welcome as it is quite warm here. One site we visited was a cluster of seven churches, Santo Stefano, dating back to the 4th century. We were welcomed by monks in traditional robes and wandered thru the sacred space as somewhere someone was singing evensong. It was delightful. Outside, there was an antique flea market happening and it was a real treasure hunt of old Italian delights. I watched Chris comb thru old records, pictures and paintings as I hunted thru jewelry and antique fixtures.
One observation I made here was the higher visibility of poverty. Many people are begging on the streets and sitting on the steps of churches as you go in and out. One of the churches was a shelter that we stumbled into and they were just folding up the blankets from the night. I also notice that a number of the people begging are a different ethnic background. There are many Africans selling bracelets on the streets and trying to make a living. I suppose poverty is quite common here in Italy but this is the most I've seen it.
We are on our way to Venice an hour away for the grand finale...the Bianale!