Day 21 Moissac to Auvillar

I am sure you will understand my rejoicing today as I can celebrate the opening of this post with the statement 'Today enroute there were No Rocks, No Stones' - unbelievable my feet don't know what's wrong and it's the first time I think in three weeks that I arrive at our destination without the throbbing in the boots.
The mist was thick at the beginning due to the fact that the town is next to the river and the canal and it creates a lot of moisture. The way today is a beautiful change as we get to walk alongside the towpath of the canal of the Tarn and Garonne River for a couple of hours. We pass a couple of locks where we attempt to work out the logistics for the boats as they pass through. It is incredibly peaceful and beautiful, the water is serene and the tall trees with their golden limbs and fingerlets of intricate foliage border the water on both sides providing reflecting silhouettes into the mirror. As we walk it gives us a different perspective to walking through farmland and the little rural villages. We get to see one of the canal boats puttering along the canal and wave to the occupants, but otherwise the other boats were tied up to the side and covered in shrouds in readiness for the next boating season. It is a pity we didn't get to witness this one and only boat going through the lock and to observe how much time it takes to make its way up or down the different levels. We pass several locks as we walk so the journey is obviously interrupted fairly often to pass through these sentries.

As we walk we are often passed by cyclists who appear to be locals out for a lengthy jaunt. Observing them seemingly fly by now gives me an understanding of the advertisements you see in Australia lovingly presenting a couple of tourists with their clean hair, clean clothes, chapeaus, scarves floating breezily behind as they cycle merrily along with the carriers full of baguettes sticking out of the basket in front. We are the slow plodding pelerines with no fresh hair,no fresh clothes and no scarves floating behind but sometimes there is a vague flurry of activity from the washing flapping in the air from our exquisite carrier (the backpack.) in the advertisements you see these happy cyclists then return to their luxury boats to be serenaded with wine cheese and lovely meals as they sit by the window. For us it's a nice sit down by the canal edge to eat our exotic banana ( but also with an incredible view)

A quick stop enroute is at a gite owned by a Swiss man who like others, provides refreshments, wonderful seating around a big table and clean toilet facilities all for a donation. It is a nice respite. I write in his book to say the Aussies have been through and notice our entry has been the only one all day. His name is Vincent and I have read about his legendary hospitality in other blogs. Unfortunately for us the gite is only 1.5 kms from our next stop so it's not worth a night for such a short distance.

Our destination is the fortified village of Auvillar which provides our climb for the day- shock after all that lovely canal walking. It was built in 10th century overlooking the Garonne River, originally an ancient river-trading settlement from Gallo-Roman times until the 10th century. Our gite is located in the village square ( which is in the shape of a triangular market place) and overlooks the impressive Halle, a circular Tuscan corn market hall supported by 20 columns built in 1824. Again the title of one of the most beautiful French villages has been allocated to this place. This title appears to be given freely along this chemin but I believe each village is worthy of the award. The streets are cobbled like those in Conques and wooden arched buildings are common.
Our entry into the village is heralded by the ringing of bells from the tall clock tower that straddles the Main Street.

Apparently the school holidays begin tomorrow for two weeks - we are not sure if this means more challenges in finding accomodation or places like the bars will be closed as owners go on holidays with their children.
We are the only guests apart from two other ladies at this gite. Our room is like we have just walked into 18th century with its sloping wooden floors, the grey painted shuttered window with the glass decorated with fine lace curtains. In the corner is a half door that leads to the shower. The walls are decorated with memorabilia from days of long ago and everywhere you look you feel as if you have been transported back a few centuries.
I walk through the village to get my bearings ( it doesn't take long) but am impressed with the small sculptures that reflect the pilgrimage decorating the corners of the streets or in front of other buildings. The church of St Peters have used a long rope pinned to many display boards to represent the chemin and have used pins along the route to mark the different towns/ villages of interest. Around the rope they have visuals to display the various religious buildings or artefacts of note to be seen. Both George and myself feel that that this chemin in France seems to be more religious than the one in Spain. There was a section last week which I forgot to mention that gave the Pelerin a map in front of every cross to explain its significance and then to give the pelerin the number of Kilometres to the next cross and where you would find it. Not only that it also gave the distance for at least the next two crosses after that as well.

We are meeting up with a friend of George's of days gone by in the town of Condom which is 50 kms away on Monday. He lives in Paris for half the year and St Jean de Luz for the other half of the year He plans to join us for the remaining part of our walk in preparation for walking St Jean Pied to Barcelona. In order to meet our deadline of Monday we are taking advantage of the bag carrier van to drive us to our next town tomorrow. The town is Lectoure which is famous for the natural thermal springs - spa, foot and water massages. George's ankle and knees are suffering and showing signs of not liking all this constant pressure. We are hoping the assisted transport plus the extra time in a thermal spring will bring salvation to these weary pilgrims.

Our dinner tonight was superb. The proprietor cooked for us bacon & onion quiche with endive salad, confit of duck with baked potato purée, and dessert was apple tart with fresh caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream.
The two other pelerins cooked their own meal but sat with us and talked as they cooked. They are sisters travelling together ( approximately my age) and they too have been suffering the shin pain that I have experienced. One of the sisters has been hitchhiking for a few days because of the pain while her sister walked alone. Her son is a physio and has shown her how to tape her leg. I was full of questions. After much talking they have decided to send their luggage with us on the transport van tomorrow in order to reduce their weight and it gives them a better chance to get lifts they said if the day becomes too long. They are both nurses and talked a lot about how they felt France could not continue giving out the same level of social security including the free medical support to so many people. The lady who has been hitchhiking said that she was saved one day out of the blue by a car that she didn't think was going to stop but stop it did- inside was a tall Swiss man with long grey hair who kindly offered to take her where she desired. It turned out to be Christian - the wonderful man who cooked us the vegetarian meal in Gréalou and where I had my birthday breakfast. Apparently the lady said she had heard several tales of different people he had helped - a Camino Saint indeed.