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Day 19 Lascabanes to Lauzerte
Rain is predicated after all these days of warm sunny weather so the rain gear has been relocated to the top of the bag. As we walk though the sun is beaming down and I am wearing shorts by the time it is 10.00
We pass through an interesting little town called Montcuq that looks as if it is home to a few artisans and has a nice ambience about it. My camel pack was obviously not secured correctly and apart from a wet pack I don't have any water. I am looking at an old water pump in the street as a possible source of replenishing when the shutters above me are thrown open and Madame calls out that that doesn't work and directs me to a couple of different options. I am relieved as in this heat I am consuming most of the water I carry.
Montcuq in French is pronounced mon kü or mon cult which means my backside I don't notice any backsides as I walk through but you never know where they could be lurking.
As we make a steep ascent out of Montcuq we pass by a large paddock and are amazed to witness the completion of the birth of a new calf- the mother is licking her new baby and its spindly little legs are grappling with the terrain in trying to stand up. Time stands still as we are rooted to the spot in wonderment.
To continue with the pilot and the plane analogy there is the need for the pilot to check his cargo by locking in the belts, pulling and tugging so that they fit snugly and nothing is loose - the goods cannot be swaying as it provides too much friction in the vehicle. This is the same for the backpack- all belts need to be tight so that it fits snugly on the back and doesn't sway. The different compartments have the safety gear carefully stowed, the medical emergency is in the top cupboard, the food reserves are in the front pocket. Topping up on fuel is usually at a bar and if it's a long haul flight and no bars are available then it necessary to go to the reserves of the nuts, apples or crackers.
The navigation is critical on this trip- as you might have picked up one small loss of concentration and the pilot misses a marker means a long rerouting and a great loss of fuel. It is critical therefore that the co-pilot is also awake and working alongside to cross check our direction. The red and white stripe markers are often difficult to locate and it takes sharp eyes to scour the environment. There are times that other navigational tools are required such as google maps and if in totally difficult terrain the pilot can revert to asking a passerby.
Lauzerte - our day's destination is built around a castle for defensive purposes. The old town is perched up high on a summit with a fortress, towers and surrounding walls but despite all this protection it fell to the English during the 100 year war. Our accomodation for the night is a hotel as we couldn't find a gite open. The good news is that the hotel comes with a restaurant that is highly recommended, the bad news is that on Wednesday evenings it is closed. No problem we have some energy left to explore the old city and find some food, the bad news is that the rain that they predicted finally decided to arrive while we are out walking. The good news is that we find a couple of places suitable for dinner, the bad news is at they don't open for another hour. So here I am stripped down to almost nothing as my 'clean dry clothes' are now completely soaked and I don't have much choice in what to wear to go back out again - looks like the sweaty clothes of today's walk.
I note the remark in our walking book that apparently we have reached half way.
- comments
David Being that you are not too far from Toulouse, have you seen any feral cassoulet?
Anne No luck with feral cassoulet as of yet David!
Joanne A few additional challenges as you get yo halfway. No water is scary. I was hoping the woman would invite you to use her tap. Hopefully dinner was pleasant after all that.
Anne Jo- I too thought she might have offered her tap but at least she explained where to find more water. I witnessed a scene yesterday where a walker asked the cafe owner for water and was refused but told where the public 'Eau Potable' was to be found- not sure about why she wouldn't share her water, maybe because the walker hadn't purchased anything from the cafe.