Day 18 Cahors to Lascabanes
I forgot to mention that the agricultural landscape is now being supported by vineyards and since the autumn weather is approaching the colour of the vines are
dazzling in their hue. It is lovely to see neat organized rows running up the hills often with a chateau or a stone building of some magnitude to lead them in their wine production.
The land is strewn with stumpy versions of trees, small oaks and fields of wheat.
Due to George's refined sense of smell I thought I could take advantage of him and get him to sniff out a few truffles. At 1000 euros a kilo this is a sure fine way of paying for the trip. His attempt to stick his nose among the bases of the oak trees does not reveal the black diamonds and we were left empty handed. The local truffle hunting pigs and dogs have nothing to fear from the Aussie invasion.
We were let down by today's walk in that it did not provide the ancient medieval villages, chateaus, bridges but instead a more open agricultural land with the soil being turned over ready for the next sowing of seeds. I did note that the overturned soil was also littered with many rocks so I assume the poor farmer also laments these added obstacles.
Starting the day is a bit like the pilot starting his flight. First we need the fuel- a good breakfast ( hopefully more than bread and hot chocolate) a full tank of oil ( water) and then there is the check down of all salient points- are the socks put on smoothly so there are no ridges, wrinkles or bumps that could lead to blisters, are the boots strapped on tightly to prevent any slippage, hat is ready nearby, suncream in the side pocket, apples, bananas, cheese, bread, nuts as our salvation for the rest stops, water proofs located in the bottom the bag ( at the moment) and the controls ( the walking sticks) close at hand.
As I walk I also begin the check list of the plane's body- how is the head, shoulders, neck, back, hips, knees, ankles and finally the toes and feet. There are so many variables and on any given day/trip one or more of these factors can malfunction causing issues with the journey. There is a lot of maintenance required with these old engines to ensure their survival if not ongoing progress. Spare parts are rare to find and they are considered by some to be an ancient model.
Our gite for tonight is delightful - it is a former presbytery of the old church next door.
. We arrive in time to meet Cécile who gives us the run down of the place, where to put our boots, sticks, the washing, the clothes line , the wifi- all the necessary things and then off she goes leaving us and the cat in control of the entire building. She shows us where to place any pilgrims who may turn up while she is away and casually remarks to just let her know what food, drinks we consume from the store so that we can pay tomorrow. The openness and trust is amazing. We have a room with a big window that overlooks the street below ( only one car has passed by this whole time) We were told that the 6pm mass in the church connected to the gite is for the Pelegrín and the priest washes the feet of the Pelegríns. While we feel that we are not worthy of having our feet washed it would be interesting to go the mass. Unfortunately the sign on the door announces that Mardi soir the priest won't be available- he must have got 'wind' of our feet and thought it best not to turn up.
We thought of changing the gite to an Aussie theme while we are in control but the lure of the shower and a chance to put the feet up don't allow enough time to rearrange the decor. Before I go upstairs I have much delight in noticing Alban marching by on the road walking to the next town 10kms down the road. (he is the one who helped put cognac in the coffee) He now travels with his cousin but like always he has time for a chat and to check on our progress and to inform us of his. Before he departs he leaves his phone number in case the two Aussies get into strife and needs his help. The Camino family is strong.
We have now found it is getting more and more difficult to find gites and chambers d'hote that are open. More and more are now closing for the season and the gite owners tell us that everyone is exhausted as they do not get a break over the long season from April to now.
Our dinner is made from local products and is tasty and wholesome. It consists of vegetable soup, chicken cooked in duck fat and vinegar ( a local speciality) with barley, goat cheese and then a dessert of prunes in a syrup. Cécile leaves us to guard the gite on our own while she returns to her own home in the village to continue the chores for her family. She will return again in the morning for breakfast before driving her son to school in Cahors , some 23 kilometres away. Life is busy.