Day 7
An early morning visit to the bathroom was accompanied by the sound of roaring trucks. I was trying to work this out in my state of sleepiness, as where we are staying is so remote that we didn't see any traffic at all and there is no town around us. As I pondered this I slowly realised the roaring trucks was actually a roaring wind and so it was when we stepped outside we were met by strong blustery winds accompanied by cold temperatures. With gloves and scarf on we walked off over the Aubrac plains.

I know I have featured cows in the blog before and today is no exception. Cows are very much a central theme to this walk so far- I don't know if this will be the case for the whole route. As we walk we are accompanied always by some special lady ringing her bell with the sound being transported across the valley. I know some people get annoyed by the neighbors' wind chimes so I wonder how they would think about the extensive jangling from the cow bells. The people are very proud also of their cows and where we are staying tonight in Aubrac they have a big metal sculpture of the mother cow and her calf. In the tourist shop you can buy folding knives with the handle made from cow horn- they actually look quite beautiful.
Today we found ourselves walking not alongside the cows but actually inside their paddocks- luckily they completely dismissed us and showed no incentive to even be inquisitive about our existence.
In some of the rural villages we have noted the open granite water troughs which would be used by the cattle as they are herded through the village.
The walk across the Aubrac plateau is often along the cow tracks and there is a constant opening and closing of gates to prevent the cattle escaping. Various signs indicate that this open area is used in winter for cross country skiing but when we ask our host where are we staying he mentions the effects of global warming and less and less snow is falling to make it possible for the skiing.
Our faces are red from the wind and I only take the gloves off after 11. It takes a bit longer for the scarf to come off.

At one of the little villages our welcoming committee is a group of turkeys ( I know the group word for geese is a gaggle but who knows the group word for turkeys) anyway they hogged the road and swaggered in front of us as if to inform us that they owned this road and we need a password to get through. I debated whether it was safe to take a photo or they would descend on me but a quick shot and they let me through. The local cat was prowling and stalking the chickens wandering alongside the road - as it made a mad dash at one less agile bird, the chicken cries in protest, a window is thrown open and Madame sends a barrage of words (I'm sure they were selectively polite words) to this feisty little chat. The cat pretends that it was occupied in something completely different and saunters off with its tail in the air. Peace returns and the chooks resume their meandering across the road. As for us peregrines it is onwards to our next rest stop.

My head is starting to feel the chill as well so when we reach Nasbinals I head off to a shop that I assume sells hats and ask the lady to show me her wide selection of winter haute couture. My choice is one that is like a tube and can be worn as a scarf but when you pull the tie it closes one end and becomes like a beanie. I found that I was able to already put it to use that afternoon. All along the Aubrac plateau we are treated to an amazing experience in various towns and also along the track outdoor - it is a photographic exhibition of photos that reflect the area. The photos are large canvases framed by local wood and set up in a standing frame. The theme was of course cows but also the windswept terrain sometimes in a storm, sometimes in snow and sometimes in summer. All of the shots are spectacular and it's enjoyable to have this free gallery experience as we walk along. I'm just glad that it is not in the snow scenes.

A few more gates, a few more cows and we descend into our cute little village for the night of Aubrac. This is from our guide book and describes the town better than I could.
"The village of Aubrac (alt. 1300m) houses the remains of a medieval monastery and hospital (dômerie) that was founded in the 12th century by the powerful Conques Abbey upon the initiative of Adalard, a Flemish noble. The village, which offered pilgrims and travellers medical care and respite from the elements, became a regional political and economic power in the Middle Ages. However, the monastery was abandoned during the French Rev- olution and left to ruin. Today what remains is the church and tower with its “bell for the lost” that once rang out to guide travellers crossing the Au- brac plateau."
This town is quite small, apart from the church it has about ten buildings and four restaurants. You can circumnavigate it in under thirty minutes.

Our accomodation is a chamber d'hote which used to be a holiday home for low income families. The building is very old with a spiral wooden staircase that appears to lean to one side. It takes us up to our wonderful room, wooden floor boards, a free standing bath in the corner with a cloth frame around it to give it privacy. All along the hall are photos that reflect the history and times of its past. The decor is that of items of the past. It's an exquisite experience and a joy to have been able to partake.
Our dinner was down the road tonight at a little restaurant. The wind blows us the few steps required to get there and with relief we open the door to find a roaring fire. At our table we have a group of four from the North of France plus our mes amis, Frances, Catharine and Martine. Frances explains to us the numbering system in France and how each region has its own number. In this way when you see a car you can tell if they are out of area. Marseilles for example is number 13 ( I think). Frances tells us that this was part of their schooling to memorise all the numbers of the regions.
We are delighted to hear the news that once Frances and Catharine have got home to Conques and had a rest that they will try and re- join us along the route. What a surprise and such good news.
Our dinner tonight consists of a vegetable soup based with chicken stock, beef and tomato casserole with rice and the dessert was baked apple with ice cream and caramel sauce.
There is a full moon tonight but I don't want to stand outside too long to appreciate it as it's too cold. I let the wind blow me back along the road and safely inside to our room.

PS the photo at the beginning of this post was one of the ones from the outdoor exhibitions - beautiful right?