Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Todra Gorge is Morocco's largest canyon. Our guide had promised that it would be cooler there, but as we travelled closer this was difficult to believe. One electronic sign we passed recorded the temperature at 47 degrees.
We stopped to see a local well used for watering camels. A nomadic family were at the well preparing for the arrival of their small herd. The father, whose face was covered with a black scarf to protect against the sun and dust, was busily hauling up buckets of water to pour into the stone trough next to the well. The traditionally dressed mother sat on the edge of the trough with two small boys. One of our group proffered lollipops to the boys, the eldest was delighted, the younger boy was overwhelmed at this contact with a stranger and promptly burst into tears (he still accepted the lollipop though!)
As the camels drew closer we could see that there were four babies with them who grouped together and perked up their heads to look at us. The nomadic woman, who so far had remained quiet, startled us with a sudden outburst of screeches as she shooed away the camels from the trough. Our guide explained that the woman wanted to wash her hair before the camels drank, so we slipped away.
Our visit to the Todra Gorge was interesting. Our attention was distracted from the impressive scenery by the buzz of activity that was taking place in the valley. Bus loads of school children had arrived for a school trip and it seemed that the rest of the town had decided to join in the holiday atmosphere. The narrow roadway was clogged with vehicle, the riverbed was full of people splashing, picnicking and kicking soccer balls, groups of young men crowded around drums and guitars belting out lively rhythms. Stalls had been set up selling rugs, ceramics, scarves, shoes and more. It was nothing like the quiet national park environment we had expected.
The girls in our group attracted a lot of unwelcome attention. Men and boys ogled, cat called, and even pulled out video cameras. It was pretty uncomfortable.
We left the gorge and were taken to a local co-op where local women produce and sell Berber rugs. The intricacy of the designs, which are all created by hand, was impressive. As usual we were given mint tea, provided an explanation of the craftsmanship and thoughtful symbolism that goes into the product, and then, of course, we were invited to buy anything we liked. Even though we are a captive market and probably being charged more than you would pay in the medina, there is still a strong pressure to purchase something to help these hard working manufacturers. Dale and I ended up buying two rugs which are hopefully now on their way to Wanganui.
With the holiday budget blown, we returned to the hotel for another three course set menu consisting of soup, tagine, and fruit - beautifully sweet rock melon - which we ate out on the leafy terrace overlooking a river valley.
- comments