We arrived in Nimes early Sunday afternoon. Our hotel was just a short walk from the train station, but the hot weather and failing suitcase made it seem longer (my suitcase handle is refusing to extend, so now poor Dale is dragging it around almost bent double as it is too heavy for me to pull). After dumping the cumbersome bags in our surprisingly spacious room, we set out to check out the sights.

Walking around near deserted streets, it wasn't long until we came across an enormous square with a double-decker carousel at one end and our first glimpse of the Nimes amphitheatre at the far corner. Built by the Romans, the Nimes arena is one of the best preserved ancient amphitheatres in the world. It has undergone a number of reinventions in its lifetime, including as a medieval fort and, more recently, a bullring. It has largely been restored to its Roman appearance and with added tiers of seating is used as a picturesque concert venue. It is strange to now think of the many nameless individuals who lost their lives in gladiatorial combat here, in front of crowds of up to 20,000.

The city centre was very walkable and still bears a number of signs of its Roman beginnings. We went to what was once the city's forum and went inside the restored Roman temple. We climbed the 30m high ruin of a Roman watch tower standing above the city with panoramic views over rooftops to the mountains of Spain far beyond. We also saw the city's symbol - a crocodile with a palm tree - everywhere we went. This symbol is a vestige of the city's Roman history - adopted after a set of Roman coins marked with the same insignia were minted in Nimes around the time Mark Antony was canoodling with Cleopatra.

As not a lot was open (it being Sunday), we sought provisions from a nearby supermarket and enjoyed snacks and a well-chilled rose from the Loire Valley (4 euro) on our tiny balcony which had a view across the street and inside the neighbour's open shutters to where their laundry was hanging...what a vista!