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Due to recent rioting of the local Thai farmers in Bangkok, we had to change our original plans. Instead of taking the train from Bangkok to Chang Mai, we decided to fly straight out to the southern, tear drop island of Phuket in the Andaman Sea. Our first port of call was the seedy, tourist hub of Patong. Here is a classic representation of Thais who have traded their moral fibre for averice. The Go-Go bars and sleazy bar girls with their attempt to woo western middle-aged men is a lot like the infamous Patpong of Bangkok. This all came as quite a culture shock, having come from the humble background of the Khmer people in Cambodia.
Despite the trashy nightlife, Patong Beach was rather nice. This was a badly struck area during the 2004 Tsunami and in the aftermath the authorities decided not to rebuild all the bars back on the beach so it is now kept nice and clean. Due to the beaming sun and a big enough swell to body-board we decided to invest in our own and play in the waves! However we were slightly cautious as a result of finding a dead puffer fish washed up on the shore (are these posionous?)
Just across the island is the old worldly Phuket Town, untouched by tourism. Here we explored the romantic, narrow side streets full of crumbling Sino-Portugese architecture and the hidden gems of quaint little coffee shops. Being avid followers of The Lonely Planet guide books, we spent a good hour looking for a narrow residential street where at the bottom, "you will find a box of almond cookies that might just change your life". After near breaking and entering what we thought was a bakery, but instead an ill womans house, we realised that The Lonely Planet team had indulged in creative hyperbole, as the only thing that changed was our belt buckle notch!
We crossed over to the beautiful Koh Phi Phi island. Our first evening was spent in awe at the crystal clear, aqua-marine water and the fine white sands. We decided to treat ourselves to a bottle of wine by the beach as we watched the sun go down. Koh Phi Phi seemed exactly what we had been looking for to conclude our big adventure; beautiful scenery, sprawling windy alley ways full of shops and restaurants and beautiful sunny weather (there aren't even any roads on this island). However, the weather over the next couple of days put quite literally a dampener on our mood. It would appear that the 1st June exactly, brought along the heavy monsoonal downpours. This rain isn't like your classic british drizzle, but instead as Forest Gump would put it, "it's big old fat rain". The rain finally receeded and we seized the day by booking ourselves on a tour to Maya Bay (where The Beach was filmed with Leonardo DiCaprio). On the way we visited Monkey Beach, which was full of monkeys being mischievous . We then made our way across to Koh Phi Phi Leh across some rather rough water. We first did some snorkelling and kayaking in the lagoon. However, snorkel snobs that we are after the Whitsundays, we turned our noses up at Nemo! We then made our way to the entrance of Maya Bay. We were not told about how difficult it was to enter the bay. We had to swim about 100m across very rough water from our boat. As we neared the entrance which was a cave in the cliffside, we had to contend with break water smashing against the cliffside and filling the cave to the roof with water. It sounds dangerous and it was! (Don't worry no more of that!) We had to grab onto some rope in the water and along the rock to get through the cave and were told to hold on tight when a wave came so that we didn't knock straight into the cliff. It was very scary and you didn't want to be stuck behind someone who was taking their time as you wanted to get through the cave before a massive wave struck! We made it through safely. So walking through the undergrowth the looming cliffs came into view along with the sprawling white sands and turquiose water. It was all very "beachesque" except due to the high winds, instead of calm, lapping water there were ferocious waves crashing down. We then made our way back to Phi Phi, enjoying some fried rice and a half decent sunset on the way.
We were recommended a climb up to the viewpoint during our stay at Koh Phi Phi. The weather was dry but cloudy so we decided to make the ascent. We think once again The Lonelt Planet exagerated about how tiring this was. It got you a little out of puff, but it was no Mt Kinabalu! The view from the top was exactly like the postcards except a little cloudier. We then decided to try and make our way through the jungle to a beach on the other side, however due to being eaten alive by mosquitos and being reminded of the scary spider walk in Mission Beach, Australia, we decided to turn round!
The main beach of Phi Phi village was a little dissapointing, it had potential to be a place of real beauty, and I'm sure pre-backpacking days it was. However, backpackers and their rubbish have ruined the beach and furthermore, of an evening instead of the relaxed, bohemian atmosphere of Koh Tao, it was more like the loud Full Moon parties of Koh Phang Nhan.
The sea was a little rougher on our return back to Phuket, but Trudi and I have developed our sea legs now unlike some of the hungover backpackers on board! (you would think it was common courtesey to not to vomit up wind of people!) This time we decided to stay around the area of Karon and Kata Beach. Kata Beach is renowned for its good surf during the wet season and Trudi and I have been searching for some surf ever since Australia (it was too early in Vietnam). The weather may not have been brilliant, but who needs it when you are surfing. Trudi and I have tired ourselves out with a day of frustrating surfing. The surf here is a little stronger than what we are used to. Nonetheless, we both managed a stand and a surf today! Despite feeling rather bruised, we are glutons for punishment, therefore, tommorrow is a new day for surfing!
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