As always Kathmandu is loud with horns blowing constantly, and that constant pecking at your day to releave you of that extra dollar/ruppee. The first days of travelling I, having forgoten, somehow make all the old school boy errors. Don't let anyone carry your bag at the airport they will expect a tip, they are not with your pre-booked taxi driver. Negotiate a price before letting someone guide you it avoids an argument later in a weak bartering position. Always secure valuables in a zip pocket.

Hotel Family Home in the Thamel area was tucked away (we msslaid it a few times) was very friendly, good breakfast, clean and hot showers. TV in the room although we never used it, and power not on much which we are now getting used to in Nepal. First night, first ghorka beer in a loud live music bar which drowned out the horns but made conversation difficult. So off to side street cafe for some great street type food then bed to recharge after long journey.

First full day walked to Pashupati, even though everyone said get a cab. Wandered through intense traffic, war zone like streets with unmade roads, piles of rubble and unfinished buildings. Crazy small shops in doorways, one seamstress on a sowing machine, outdoors by a tree in the middle of a busy junction, random.

The tourist attraction of Pashpupati turned out to be the usual temples and ancient royal residence with stupa's and things of worship. Gods of creation, destruction, protection. All praising life and death but mainly phalic symbols and pro-creation. Sex is a forceful basic urge in all cultures and religions. A mans penis, a womans vagina and the essential liquid of life. In the western world we hide this, out here they shoive it down your throat so to speak, love it.

Apart from that we found an out door crematorium. Concrete slabs along the river bank, where wood was laid for fires to burn cloth clad bodies. A close family member would put a p