Like most cities, Kathmandu is very loud. Horns are blowing constantly, and there's a constant pecking at your day to releave you of that extra dollar/ruppee. The first days of travelling I, having forgotten, somehow make all the odd school boy errors. Don't let anyone carry your bag at the airport they will expect a tip. Now although this will be your first 5 minutes in a country, this has to be your most ruthless - they are not with your pre-booked taxi driver and its fair game to all who try. Negotiate a price before letting someone guide you it avoids an argument later in an inevitably weak bartering position. Always secure your valuables in a zip pocket.

Hotel Family Home in the Thamel area - which like most places was tucked away (we mislaid it a few times), was very friendly, a good breakfast, very clean and with hot showers. TV in the room although we never used it, and power not on much which we are now getting used to in Nepal. First night, first ghorka beer in a loud live music bar which drowned out the horns but made conversation difficult. So off to side street cafe for some great street type food then bed to recharge after long journey.

First full day we walked to Pashupati, even though everyone said get a cab. Wandered through intense traffic, war zone like streets with unmade roads, piles of rubble and unfinished buildings. Crazy small shops in doorways, and one seamstress on a sowing machine outdoors by a tree in the middle of a busy junction - random.

The tourist attraction of Pashpupati turned out to be the usual temples and ancient royal residence with stupa's and objects of worship. Gods of creation, destruction, protection, all praising life and death but mainly phalic symbols and pro-creation. Sex is a forceful basic urge in all cultures and religions. A mans penis, a womans vagina and the essential liquid of life. In the western world we hide this, but out here they are proud to openly reference it. I want to say shove it down your throat, but that would be tasteless - whoop there it is.

Apart from that we found an outdoor crematorium. Concrete slabs along the river bank, where wood was laid for fires to burn cloth clad bodies. A close family member would put a piece of gold in the mouth of the body, the set light and tended by the skilled body burner, who makes sure all is burnt, apparently women take longer. Ashes are then swept into the 'holy' river so the souls can float to heaven.