Hello again,

Am planning to leave the north ofThailand tomorrow for the beach resort of Patong, where I get a boat out for three days scuba diving wednesday to Friday.

Since I last wrote I have been taking in the Thai new year in Chaig Mai where it is more enthusiastically celebrated than any other part of the country. This meant that when we headed out on our three day jungle trek on new years day, we were subjected to 'participation' in the celebrations. New Year also goes under the name of The Water Festival. This means that for three days there is one massive water fight, with people lining the roads with drums of water ,hoses and buckets to soak passing cars, bikes, lorries and pedestrians. I certainly know how to time my visits to these places!

Fortunately I was pre warned(to some extent) so had my camera in a plastic bag. On the way up to the start of the trek we were in the back of an open truck and our driver slowed down for every 'water station' on the two hour journey so the ten of us got completely soaked to the skin.

Eventually we hit the jungle trail, out of the way of water fights for two days at least until out return journey. The trekking was not too demanding apart from the heat but during the 3 days we stopped to swin at five different waterfalls where at least we could control how much water we took onto ourselves. Our guide was very knowledgeable about all aspects of the jungle from animal life to plant life, whilst also explaining the lives of the Karen villagers with whom we stayed for two nights. Each village was in a different setting with its own character and we bunked down in a big hut on bamboo stilts off the ground each night. (a lot more comfortable than the Indian trains). In the evening our guide was also the cook and knocked us up some local dishes in fine style. It gets dark circa 1830 here so each night we sat around a fire and blethered or sang songs(or both). On the second night Thai massage was available, but more about that later.Each morning the start was early so as to keep out of the sun in the heat of the day, so no late nights. Our group comprised a family of five from Denmark, a Spanish couple, a Chinese lady and a Japanese gent(no, not from any previous account) and myself.

The trail took us along rivers and through forests, thick with banana trees. Spiders and snakes were present but caused us no problems. Our guide was very much on the ball for any potential danger. On the final day we had a spectacular end to the trek, with a visit to an elephant farm where we got to ride the beasts through the jungle for between one and two hours. Quite an experience. Two people to each elephant.They wander off the trail to get food and have to be coaxed back by the driver. Had only seen them on the plains of Zimbabwe previously but the drivers made them take us up steep gradients as part of the trek. Given their size and weight their dexterity in climbing is amazing. Photos to follow I hope...

Last part of the trek was a two hour ride on bamboo rafts down the river whose name I have been unable to ascertain. Not exactly white water rafting but quite adrenalin inducing due to the number of rafts on the river and the fact that the banks were lined with people to drench you with(readily available) water. Yes it was the last day of the water festival. At least you were already wet from the river as you took your punishment. One scary part was when an energetic squad of plukey youths tried to capsize the boat with myself and one of the Danes in it. We managed to keep control but only just. The Danish bloke in the other raft got a quite servere gash in his foot when he came off his raft, but nothing requiring hospital. :Last part of the trip was to endure another hour and a halfs soaking from roadside squads in the van on the way back to the city. At least by then we knew what to expect.

Although it was quite fun (great in fact if you are 15 or under), there is a sombre side to the whole new year business in Chaing Mai. There is no point in only telling the laughs. I was speaking to a cop just as we were leaving on the trek and he told me that in Chaing Mai area alone (and this was only up to new year's day itself) 65 people had died due mainly to drink driving accidents involving motorbikes. People here do not wear helmets and they go out and get tanked up with the results for all to see. 'It's carnage', he said . I had seen an editorial in the Bangkok Post last week which drew attention to the subject and pointed out the 70 odd deaths last year in this area, exhorting people to modify their behaviour; but from the stats on new years day alone it looks as if that total would have been passed quite easily with resultant grief in many families.

Onto other matters. Thai traditional massage is not relaxing or soothing but very robust and tests your body to the limits. Every muscle seem to get stretched and the masseuse sits on your back and seems to pull parts of your body apart. Having trekked through the jungle for a whole day I'm sure it did me some good, but you need to get over the shock of the first ten minutes when the pain barrier gets tested on a few occasions. Will try it again in the south to see if there are any benefits from repeating it. Other holidays makers have advised that you need a few sessions to get the benefit.

Have been very much enjoying the Thai food, especially the spicy soups and curries. Have to report that both the green and red curries are great and the yellow one is still to be tried. The Yum Yum soup (no pun intended) is also very nice (spicy with noodles),especially those served in small markets where the locals eat. Some of my female friends would not appreciate the ambience but the food is authentic and tasty.

Have to admit that I have see an Indian Halal restaurant in the market and will be trying that tonight to compare the Thai and Indian taste. Will be interesting to see if they include any of the Thai spices.

Anyway, that's it for this week. I leave Chaing Mai tomorrow and could have done more trips, but frankly am getting a bit weary of the daily grind of trips and tours, even with my day of rest every seventh day. I'm hoping that a few days of exploring under the sea, which tends to be very relaxing) plus a few days on the beach, followed by a leisurely week with my big brother in Melbourne will recharge the batteries for the South American leg of the trip.

Hope to hear from some of you in the interim. Will write again next week, all being well.

Best Wishes

Murdo