Hi,

My time in China is just coming to an end. Thanks again to all who have written. I've just caught up with the replies today as I've been on a boat with no internet access over the past 4 days.

I can vouch for the fact that my chopsticks skills have been finely honed over the past two weeks. I may have to relearn the old fork and knife routine...

Last time I wrote I had arrived in Beijing( formely Peking). Major problem for the tourist in the city is that scaffolding is everywhere as they build up to the 2008 Olympics, so lots of places are not best suited for viewing. However, still plenty to see.

I kicked off with the Forbidden City. To be honest was not hugely impresseed. It is vast but the Ming style of architecture does not really grab me. The complex itself is vast and is impressive even for that reason only, but after a while it tends to go on and on in much the same style. I went there on a Saturday. It was mobbed with Chinese tour groups who are regimented in a manner that make the Germans on holiday look almost casual. They wear the same coloured baseball caps and follow a leader with a flag of the same colour.

Much more interesting was the experience of visiting Mao's tomb, where his remains rise from a deep freeze every morning for a limited period. Had mixed feelings about whether to go and see the corpse of one of the worst mass murderers in human history. The idea of his body being on view every day was macabre enough, but what would be the point in such a visit? Anyway, I decided to experience it and see the effect on others who were in attendance.

I was the only non Chinese person I could see in the vast queues, which were marshalled into regiment-like sections and shuffled forward into this vast mausoleum in Tian' anmen Square. It was obvious from the outset that for most this was a sombre pilgrimage and not to be treated lightly. Just before you went up the steps there was a stall where you could buy flowers to lay and lots of people ran from their place in the queue to purchase. At the top of the stairs there is a huge marble white statue of Mao, not unlike the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, where the faithful duly laid their yellow daffodil-like flowers. Then you split into two columns which filed past both sides of the corpse. You don't get very close and you can't dawdle and gawp as soldiers at the end are exhorting you to speed up. Maos features are very recognisable but the face is very wax like and looks more like a model than a dead body. Past the body it all turned very capitalistic as you 'exited through the gift shop', where Mao souvenirs were aplenty, including watches and every form of gift type imaginable. Doing a roaring trade as well.

As very few people speak English, the only ones you could really ask about Mao were the 'art' students who approach you in the Square to 'practice their English for the Olympics' but are usually trying to get you to visit a gallery or take a tour. My impression of the Chinese generally is that they are very nationalistic so probably criticising on of their own to a foreigner would not be normal. When I asked one person whether they thought Mao was a good man, the reply was ' we do not say. We just say, that is in the past and part of history'. When pressed as to whether his legacy was a good one or not the reply was. ' we believe he did a lot of good things, but some not so good things'. Implicit criticism was out, but I can't really get to the bottom of why that is. Could be cultural, or fear of speaking unwisely to a stranger.

Tian'anmen Square itself is an impressive public place which would be ideal for spending an afternoon watching the world go by. Whether it is to do with not encouraging people to assemble there given the past history or not, there are no seats to park your self on, which was a pity.

At the weekend I did visit a small local park with locals practicing tai chi and some enthusiastic amateur musicians and one singer giving a recital in a bandstand. As there were no other tourists in sight I did get stared at rather a lot, which can happen if you stray off the main tourist paths.

Other Beijing bits. Population is 12 million. It is bright and modern. Public transport is good, with a new metro system and cheap buses. Travel for one hour 40 minutes across town costs about 5p. Lots of people on bicycles as well. Managed to try beijing duck: about one fifth of the price in the Uk and the real mccoy. Best way to eat out is in big groups, as you can order a banquet at a cheap price and get to to try lots of different things. Weather here is cold. Have had to wear a thick jacket every day in Beijing.

As my first Chinese meal ever was sweet and sour chicken in the Far East (corner of Pitt St/ Sauchiehall st), I thought i should try the original version. It is more sour than sweet, which is a vast improvement on the western style serving.

Anyway, the major attraction in this part of the world is the Great Wall. I decided I didn't want to do the touristy bit and arrive at the wall at the crowded sector for two hours and then get back on the bus. I arranged to go on a 10k hike along a more remote part. Although I try to manage my expectations down for this type of experience it was difficult because everything tells you it will be great. Fact is, it is EVEN BETTER. Undoubtedly one of the most staggering sights I will ever see. Built along the mountain ridges it is totally uncompromising. Those familiar with Skye can just imagine a massive wall built along the Cuillen ridges from end to end. That is what it entails but multiplied numerous times.

Our hike took 4 hours and was very physically demanding due to the undulations. Totally unforgettable.

After Beijing I travelled down to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors, a vast buried army of individually carved statues unearthed in 1974 who guard the tomb of a past local ruler. Although they have uncovered thousands of them the job is still a work in progress. Another amazing experience. Incidently, the (now) very old man who discovered the warriors whilst digging a well (he is described as a plumber!) makes a guest appearance in the bookshop every morning to enthusiastically sign copies of tourist guides. Possibly at a better rate of pay than a local plumber...

Final part of the jigsaw for this section was a further 12 hour train trip south. At the end of the train ride I got on a boat to take a trip down the Yangtze river. Cheapest way is by public ferry which is what I used, There were about 300 Chinese on board plus two English, two Iraqis, an Indian and myself. I know the nationality details because none of the Chinese spoke fluent English so the six of us got to know each other quite well. We were touring a part of the river encompassing three massive gorges. As the biggest dam in the world is currently being constructed downstream the river will rise by 175 metres, displacing a million people and changing the river for ever. One of the last chances to see it in its current state...

The weather was varied. Mostly it was hazy. One day I caught a chill up on deck and the next I got my feet sunburned through the haze. Another day it rained all day. In between we saw the gorges in all weather and they were breathtaking. No blue skies at any time but funnily enough the best views were the day it rained. Wisps of mist would cover the landscape from the sea nearly up po the peaks and then a black jag of rock would stick out above the clouds and list like a picture in some fairy tale. Amazing. Hope the pictures are up to the job.

Two things in closing. Films and fridge magnets.

Films: well anybody who knows me wasn't in any doubt that when I went to the Taj Mahal, The Great Wall etc a lot of photos would be taken. After 4 weeks I am on my 13th film, so a rough estimate for the whole trip will be circa 50. As the sixteen weeks away is the equivalent of 8 full summer holidays I reckon thats not bad. Others among you will have other views.

Most folk know I collect fridge magnets from my travels. This has been a damp squib so far. India does not do them and China has very few. Fact is I have only bought one so far. In Hong Kong and funnily enough was of Mao. (that's the Chairman, not the taxi driver I had this morning of the same name.)

Off to Thailand tomorrow night for three weeks and will update you further from there.

Thanks again for all the snippets of news from back home. Greatly appreciated. Look forward to hearing from you soon.

Take care

Best wishes

Murdo