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Hello,
Since I last wrote I have left China and have now been in Thailand since last Friday and will be here for a total of three weeks.
Final destination in China was Shanghai where I spent a day prior to leaving for Bangkok. Shanghai is a massive city of 13 million people which is regaining its position of premier business centre in Asia following years of relative decline when Beijing was more favoured by the previous regime. The amount of building going on is phenomenal including what will shortly be the world's tallest building. The skyscrapers are reminiscent of Manhattan Island but seem to contains as much residential dwellings as business.
I discussed with some people the fact that high rise was a disaster in the Uk in the 60s and that we have now demolished or mostly got rid of ours. Despite the number of high rise dwellings here they don't seem to have turned into ghettos quickly. Following a discussion some were of the opinion that you can't really compare the two. in the Uk people were moved from low rise dwellings where they had a sense of community and this was destroyed with the high rise penomenon. In the case of e.g. Shanghai people the view was that the high rise dwellings are an improvement on their previous dwellings and that they have no notions like ourselves of 'a mans home is his castle' and aspirations to small cottage type of dwellings as the ultimately desireable home. Whether this is true or not time will tell. Given the poulation density pollution seemed surprisingly low, but it must be dubious as to whether this is sustainable in the long term.
Final chinese bit for my supermarketing friends. The most impressive outfit over here is the french chain Carrefour. Have not been to one in France to compare but their stores are huge here, immaculate and dressed to a very high standard. The fresh counters are the most amazing sight. Obviously you can't be too squeamish about the types of animals you have hanging up or swimming about (i kid you not), but the scale, level of activity and overall visual impact is astonishing. The customer offer over the door says: 'If within 15 days of purchase you can find any of our goods sold more cheaply within a 5k radius, we will refund you FIVE times the difference'. 'Nuff said.
Thailand:
After queuing for an hour my Air India flight to Bangkok was cancelled due to technical difficulties. Potential nightmare, but once the communications were sorted into English those of us going to Bangkok were taken to a four star hotel at the airport and put up overnight. We caught a Thai Airways flight the next morning so things worked out ok. Had a pleasant evening with a Slovenian and a Japanese guy who were the only other main English speaking people travelling on the flight to Bangkok..
The first and enduring impression of Thailand is the heat. Whereas China was 10-15 celcius most days Bangkok is 35. The whole country is like one massive sauna. Even a fan in your room makes little difference and you start looking around for a/c shopping malls when you are out. I have been staying not far from the river so have used boats to get around, which also provides a cool breeze. There is also a skyrail system which provides elevated trains downtown reminiscent of Chicago but much more up to date.
The main palace and (Buddhist)temple complex just beside the river was well worth a two hour tour and I also visited the floating market which you access in a small punt like boat. There are stalls by the riverside and also people in small boats selling food to other boat users. the colour and variety of goods on sale are eye catching and the whole trip (about and hour and a half out of Bangkok) was a great experience.
Having been in a number of big cities now (4 with a population of 12-13 million) it was good last night to travel overnight to Chaing Mai in the north. It is a small scale city and I'm staying in a youth hostel in the outskirts. Tomorrow I am going on a three day trek into the country which will involve hiking,swimming under a waterfall (should be bliss), a two hour elephant ride in the jungle and bamboo rafting. Overnight we will be staying with village tribespeople and learning about their way of life. For three days the whole deal costs about 30 quid which is amazing value. On the whole Thailand is as cheap as India. Temperatures in the north are not much cooler however, it is 33 celcius today.
Anyway, thanks once again for all your emails which provide fellowship in this remote part. Will be heading south next week for scuba diving and hope to write of my trekking experiences before I leave.
Look forward to hearing from you with news of home.
Enjoy the Easter holiday. Is is New Year here tomorrow so hogmanay today!
Take care
Murdo
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