Hi,

The time has come to leave Peru.I have enjoyed the 17 days here but can't say I ever felt entirely secure except when out trekking. One of the most beautiful countries I have ever been in as far as landscapes are concerned, but the downside is that you feel you may be robbed at any time.

Since I last wrote I moved to Arequipa in the south and used this as a basis for visiting the Colco Canyon. This was a three day trek in one of the deepest canyons in the world. The book says it is twice the size of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, but without referring to length or depth this does not really tell us much. However there are those amongst you who can put us right. Come on down Bill Wood, retired geography teacher!

Anyway, it was a fabulous trek. En route in the bus we went over a pass at 4,800 metres, beating my previous high. At the start of the trek there was a moment which encapsulates the contrast in temperatures at this altitude. It was roasting hot as we headed down into the canyon. There were cactus everywhere. I managed to line up a camera shot where I have cactus in the foreground against a snow capped mountain peak. Desert and snowy wilderness in the one shot.

On the second day we wandered along the canyon passing through small villages and meeting local people. An old woman in traditional dress bent almost double with a huge bundle of sticks on her back is one vivid image. We tasted locally made honey and sampled fruit from the local orchards. Right down in the canyon on a bend in the river was a grassy area known as the 'Oasis', which has a swimming pool right in the middle of nowhere. Needless to stay a small stop over lunch was a requirement as our sore feet embraced the cool water.

The afternoon of the second day was the most strenuous with an 1100 metre climb out of the canyon, tackled in less than three hours. One of our number twisted his ankle and had to hire a donkey to take him up.

The third day we were up early to see the main attraction for many. Condors are virtually guaranteed to be circling in numbers between 0730 and 0900. We were not disappointed and saw about seven. Not sure how the photos will be as they are not the easiest subject to frame. Anyway, a trip well worthwhile taking.

Moving onto the human aspect as I leave Peru. Great characters and interesting cultural points. Our guide at Lake Titicaca was called Tito Castro although this was only his first names. Hint of just a bit communist influence there. Had a chat with him and it turns out his dad does indeed have such sympathies. He also has a brother called Fidel!

Moving onto religion, when we were on the Inca trail it became apparent that although this is a predominantly roman catholic country since the Spanish arrived, the old pre christian pagan religion is still strong amongst the people. Our guide on the trail advised us at meal times when we had a drink to pour a small portion of it out to the nature spirit. This was treated as a local custom at first but later in the tour he spoke on the subject at some length and advised us that his company guides always made an offering to the nature spirit and that other companies (who were named( who did not believe and made no offering had more accidents on their treks than was normal. This was echoed by our friend Tito Castro who at lunchtime on the island advised us to pour some of our drink out or possibly suffer some future trouble. He was interrupted by Steve from Queensland, gripping the bottle of beer he had just ordered and was advised that where Steve came from ' you could get into trouble for wasting beer!'

On the Colco Canyon tour whilst in one village our guide Marco showed us the christian style cross at the entrance to the village and advised us that the major festival of the year was on December 8th. This was queried as to why December 25th was not the major festival. We were told that the 25th was mainly for children to get presents but the 8th was celebrated by all the local villages and was the major feast which predated the Spanish arrival but which now had a Christian flavour. In our western culture this is echoed in the observance of Christmas which retains the pagan date and symbols but was given a christian flavour when the Roman Empire switched from pagan to Christian.

Still on religion my final day in Peru here was spent visiting two sites. In 1995 ash spewing from a volcano near the Colco Canyon melted ice on a nearby mountain. This led to a discovery by a US archaeologist of the totally preserved body of a 12 year old girl. In order to appease the gods of nature a sacrifice of a young girl or boy was made frequently by the Incas. they were chosen from birth as their umbilical cords were kept and buried with them as part of the offering. This girl has been named Juanita and is on show at the local University Cattolica in Arequipa. The girl's skin, hair, teeth and internal organs were all preserved by the ice and DNA and other testing is ongoing. I saw the 'Ice Maiden' myself. Pretty macabre but a real insight into how the Inca religion was practised. Four other bodies of similar types have been found nearby as the ice continues to melt.

The main attraction in Arequipa itself is the Santa Catalina monastery, a huge complex of rooms, cloisters and plazas. Established in 1579 and built from white volcanic sillar stone, it is the finest example of Arequipa colonial architecture, a fusion of Spanish and native styles. Fantastic photo opportunities with alleys, doorways, courtyards filled with flowers and views onto the nearby snow capped mountains. For an RC establishment the predominant colours were orange and blue! Funny how this led to an inappropriate tune running through my head during my tour....Hopefully you will see the photos which will explain further.

Am writing this at the airport on Monday night and will be in Argentina Tuesday morning for a two week stint. Am told by fellow travellers that Scots are well appreciated there due to the anti-English sentiment which exists in that country! Anyway, enough controversy for one email.....

Please keep in touch.

All the best

Murdo