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Hi,
I arrived in Argentina on Tuesday after a five hour flight delay due to bad weather in Lima (Peru). The first impressions on flying into Buenos Aires and making my way to the hostel were of a much more sophisticated set up than Peru. Looking out of the bus window on the way in, I could have been going into a European city or even a US destination had there been more advertising hoardings. During the inter war period Argentina was actually the 7th richest country in the world and part of that affluence, especially compared to other south American countries, is still apparent despite the recent financial problems.
I am staying in the San Telmo area of the city which is possibly the most atmospheric neighbourhood in the city, It has lots of old colonial architecture with crumbling decorative facades. Small shops and restaurants pack the narrow streets and provide a bustling feel.
The city is not really like any I have visited before in the sense that there are no 'big' things to visit. The main way to see the place is to spend time exploring neighbourhoods in a leisurely manner and enjoy the ambiance of it's cafes and restaurants. A pleasant change from Andean hiking.
Noted for it's excellent wines, Argentina also has the reputation of having the best beef in the world. Hard to argue from my first experience of eating out. The chef 's special in Don Ernesto, a restaurant just down the street from my digs was a fantastic experience. Two inches of fillet steak cooked medium to perfection. No steak knife was forthcoming, nor was it needed. An old blunt knife still sliced through the beef, so perfect was its tenderness and the flavour was exquisite. A fried egg on top and a small gammon steak accompanied the beef, with fried potatoes and an onion and pepper mix. With a glass of vino tinto, a small bottle of mineral water and an espresso to finish off, this came to just short of six pounds sterling. Fantastico! One way of describing Argentina is to say that you experience European style standards at third world prices. Certainly very good value as a destination from what I have seen so far.
Have enjoyed exploring the city which seems to have a political demo on every day. I went especially to the Plaza Del Mayo where for years since the 80s a group of women have gathered and hold a silence protest, displaying photos of 'The Disappeared' who were abducted under the brutal military regime of that time. Unfortunately, although I was given details of the timing of the demo from different sources, nothing happened on the day I was there. Had read about this event for years so was sorry to miss it.
Next week I hope to move to the Iguacu falls which border Argentina and Brazil and make my way further west from Buenos Aires. My thoughts are very much towards home this week, with Marion's wedding today and my Dads 91st birthday tomorrow. Hope to hear full reports in due course!
All the best for now.
Murdo
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