We took a day trip to the DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) which is a section of land 4 kilometres wide, stretching the entire width of the country at each side of the 38th parallel and is a no-go zone for citizens of either country. The DMZ is jointly policed by UN soldiers representing the ROK (Republic of Korea) - American and Korean troops, and North Korean troops representing the DPRK (Democratic People Republic of Korea) - Although visible to each other, there is no fraternisation allowed between the two forces.

When we arrived at Camp Bonifas we were given U.N. id cards, briefed regarding protocol and behaviours, signed a disclaimer in case anything "happened" and transferred to a UN vehicle with a ROK army officer as escort to the Joint Security Area (JSA). The officer spoke to us in clipped tones, almost like a 1950s war film but the atmosphere was pretty tense and the sentry postings around the building we were allowed access to, exacerbated the feeling - Soldiers, expressionless and all wearing dark glasses, stood firmly to attention, faced away from the civilian visitors. One room, the Freedom House Military Armistice Commission Building, spanned the border and it was possible to technically stand inside North Korea (DPRK) for a few seconds. Also an opportunity to take "touristy" photos.

With us on the trip was a female defector, who told us details of her escape through China and Thailand into South Korea(ROK) …….. Maybe a bit "Touristy" but a definite for "the has to be done" list for South Korea.

Before we joined the tour we had to email a copy of our passport to have UN-performed background checks and were given strict dresscode instructions - no ripped jeans, tops without sleeves, or open toed shoes. Apparently this dress code exists in case the North decide to feature any of the tourists in state propoganda and those who dress "sloppy" would make perfect fodder for the North's depiction of western foreigners.