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Typhoon Trami did not reach us overnight, so we caught our bus to Takayama, with a 4-hour stop-off at Shirakawago (we will never remember all these names). We arrived surrounded by misty mountains on a wet day and checked that our departure at 2.30 was still on schedule as Typhoon Trami was still creeping up on us. Shirakawago is known for its thatched farmhouses with steeply slanted roofs to prevent snow accumulation (also likened to "hands in prayer" as the farmhouses' steep thatched roofs resemble the hands of Buddhist monks pressed together in prayer). The roofs provide large attic space used for cultivating silk works! The village is set in beautiful mountainous surroundings, today draped in mist. After a few hours exploration we found out our bus from Shirakawago was cancelled but luckily we found out in time and managed to get the two last seats on an earlier bus and arrived in Takayama two hours later.
Our hostel (K's house) was a short walk from the bus station, it was very clean and had good kitchen facilities - We cooked some pasta, poured some red wine and relaxed for the rest of the evening.
Heather had bought a 2 day bus ticket for the area, which included lunch, an onsen ( Japanese style hot springs) and a cable car ride to one of the alpine peaks. A two hour bus ride through the very impressive mountain scenery to the Shin-Hotaka ropeway …….A series of two cable cars (Japan's longest), taking us to the peak at 2909 metres - The views were spectacular. Next day back on the bus, again into the mountains, where we stopped at a spa area for our onsens. One has to be scrubbed clean and naked before entering the hallowed hot spring water ….. it was however segregated so we spent an hour apart relaxing in the onsen, which was outside in the rocks and with great mountain views (not sure if the mountain people also had great views of us - binoculars permitting).
The next day and a half were spent exploring the town, which boasted many temples (surprise) set in the hillside and perfectly preserved houses, which gave the place a very authentic Japanese feel set in a very pretty riverside location. Keeping up the theme of authenticity Heather tried a local speciality - Fried Octopus balls - Dan passed on the opportunity to eat balls.
Our last night in Takayama and nearing the end of our Japanese adventure, so we decided to treat ourselves and book in to a Ryoken, a traditional Japanese Inn with Tatami mats and Futons. Doting staff dressed in Kimonos received us and with much obsequious pamperage we were escorted to our rooms and presented with elaborate Kimonos and Yukutas (a cotton Kimono style garment for relaxing in). We went out for evening meal (not in traditional dress) to a locally notable restaurant and sampled the local Hida beef a variety of "Wagyu" beef, unique to the region. The process involved a grill being set up on your table and a waitress supplied beef and some vegetables (not many - the Japanese do not seem big on veg.) One then proceeded to cook one's own dinner. It was "melt in the mouth" quality, which suited Heather but Dan prefers his meat to offer more resistance (The Irish like to chew their meat). On return to our Ryoken, we took the opportunity to try their Onsen. They did have a private spa you could book for an hour but was filled with hot water rather than natural hot spring water so we opted for the traditional segregated Onsen. Fed and bathed, we were relaxed and ready for our night on the floor!
Breakfast next morning was a dress up in Kimono affair but Heather found the instructions too complicated and reverted to wearing the Yakuta instead …… The breakfast itself was Japanese in style and content but totally delicious. We were now all set for our early morning bus to our final destination of Tokyo.
- comments
Sheila What a great blog both. Thanks for writing it and keeping us updated. This adventure in Japan sounds wonderful. Sheilaxx
Rachel That sounds like a marvellous stop. The scenery was stunning. The Onsens and Ryokens sounded brilliant. I would live to have been there to experience it. You looked fab in your outfit Dan. The pictures were fab and I loved the sculpture with the extra long arms. Not sure that I would have liked the cable car though. However, if we get there I will def have a go as the views were stunning. Xx