We ate breakfast at the castle. Deborah was nice enough to bring breakfast to our room since we slept in, and didn't make it to the dining room in time. I guess the bunk beds were comfier than they looked!

After a cup of coffee we were ready to explore. We chatted with one of the hostel employees, and he recommended taking a river boat to St.Goar the following morning. He mentioned a castle that the kids would enjoy there.

We left the cars up by the castle, and followed a walking path down into Bacharach. For the first part of the walk we zigzagged through a covered forest on a steep incline. After 10 minutes the path opened up with a nice view of rooftops, vineyards and the Rhine. Wild flowers and rose bushes added to the scenery. Taking another series of steps down we came across on old ruin, used for plays and concerts now. At street level we wandered around looking in shops, and gawking at the timber framed homes protruding out above the street, with flower boxes neatly accenting the windows. We had a look for our upcoming rental property, and found it above a cafe. The lady renting to us was not there, but at least we knew where to go the following day.

For lunch we stopped at a tiny restaurant. Tiffany lamps hung throughout, and all sorts of hunting trophies were mounted on the walls. A bear skin and antlers were among the curiosities. In addition, pictures of horses, and prizes they won, hung on the walls in the hallway leading to the bathrooms. Above the kitchen door was a picture of farmer struggling with a cow in the field.

The kids said the restaurant smelled like grandma's kitchen - so good! Our waitress appeared to be in her 60s, she was a lively German lady, friendly and practical. She spoke English making it easy for us to order. We had a typical German wurst sandwich - delicious! The day was very hot so we asked our waitress about swimming in the Rhine. She enthusistly told us where to go, and where not to swim. She said that swimming in some parts of the Rhine is like dancing on the autobahn - fun, but only lasts for a short time. She did a lot of swimming in the Rhine before her husband passed on, and now she has to be at the restaurant most of the time. She said to think of her while we were out there.

The guys walked back to the castle to collect bathing suits, and bring the car.
We followed the Rhine past a campground of caravans, and then past mini camping cabins. Rows of breakwater stones jut out from shore making good swimming spots.

The guys found us, and parked close-by. The beach was sandy, we laid our towels out and relaxed in the sunshine. The kids played in the water, and in the sand. We waded out too, passing patches of green river floaties, being careful not to step on sharp stones, the bottom was very rocky. It changed to mucky, and then back to rocky, but never got deep. We were a quarter of the way across the river and could still stand. Many different birds floated by and sat on the water breaks, including swans. Looking up we admired the vineyards neatly organized on the banks. We watched a lot of boat traffic, long slender boats carrying coal and other goods.

Feeling cooler we drove back to the castle to shower off. Deborah found us cappuccinos, so we sat on the patio sipping coffee and enjoying the view. We felt so fortunate to be sitting up above the Rhine in such a unique environment. The kids started up a game of cops and robbers around the courtyard. Every so often we would see one of their heads peek around a stone wall, or out of a window.

With schnitzel on our mind we returned to the restaurant that we ate at the night before. The waitress was amused to see us again. We enjoyed sitting out on the cobbled street looking at the beautiful buildings.

Back at the castle we sat at the picnic table for a drink.

It is hard to believe how old Burg Stahlek is, and the interesting history behind it. A secret wedding against a father's wish, (the father being the owner of the castle) in 1194 known as the Stahleck Marriage, which changed the course of ownership forever. Then in the 1600s the castle was besieged, conquered, and sacked 8 times during the Thirty Years War. In 1688, on Louis XIV's order, the castle was once again challenged, and surrendered to French troops. A year later the castle was blown up by the French into disrepair. The castle changed hands multiple times. It wasn't until 1828 when the castle was given as a gift from the Prince of Prussia to his wife, that some clean-up of the rubble began. In 1909 the ruin was transferred from Prussian ownership to the Rhenish Association for Landmark Preservation and Landscape Protection. During this time money was raised, and effort was put into stabilizing the ruins. Unfortunately, WW1 brought more vandalism & decay. In 1925 it was decided to rebuild the castle into a youth hostel. In the 1930's under Nazis rule more building continued, to provide additional rooms for sleeping, totaling 260 beds. Sadly, Stahlek became one of 27 youth castles used for the indoctrination of teens and young adults. More building continued until it was interrupted by WW2. During the years 1940-1942 it was used as a military hospital. The dark past continued as the castle was then used for forced re-education classes for the youth from Luxembourg, who were away at university when their home country was occupied by the Germans. Required military service received backlash from many people, and for striking against the idea youth were interned in the castle for four years as punishment. It was used as an internment camp for German youth showing insufficient loyalty to the German party. Some were later transferred to concentration camps. At the same time it was a work and military training camp for Germans aged 14-18. The youth brought to the castle under the Nazis rule were male.
After the war it was used to billet French soldiers. Finally in 1947 it went back to being used as a youth hostel, with a separate block for women. If the walls could speak.... I can't even imagine!

We called it a night, curious to see our next accommodation in the morning, and then visit St. Goar by boat.