Hello again, Blogonauts!

Back again with a messy mesh of memories of our stay in Istanbul.

Turkey is a secular democracy ... well ... in as much as the government of any country in Europe could be called secular. The Turkish constitution certainly does not guarantee the clergy seats in Parliament. (Surprisingly, the United Kingdom has Spiritual Peers, twenty-six Church of England bishops who retain membership in the House of Lords).

But in the same way that the majority of the US population heavily identifies with some brand of Christianity, most modern Turks are at least nominally Sunni Muslims.

The vigor of their individual beliefs and practices varies widely. And some regional populations are more replete with strict adherents than others. But Turkey has long touted its commitment to religious tolerance and pluralism. Thus, they have no difficulty welcoming guests from all over the big, round world.

Nonetheless, just as it does in the "Christian countries," religious architecture often seems to dominates the skyline. Only in the modern era have businesses built towers that can rival the steeples of churches, the spires of cathedrals, or the minarets that accompany the larger mosques.

This architectural adoration crosses cultures and theologian. Istanbul contains several examples. Hagia Sophia stands out as unique. It was ordered built by Emperor Justinian almost 1500 years ago. Its survival alone, at this age, is astonishing. However, it was and remains one of the most majestic buildings in the world.

The building began as Christian Church, but one that was steeped in governmental power. It was designed both for worship and to impart the subtle signal that God was backing the emperor of Constantinople. As Rick Steves described it in his guide to the Hagia Sophia, "The Statue of Liberty could do jumping jacks beneath the dome (without touching the ceiling)." How can you not stand in awe of a God or a Government that can accomplish such a feat?

But 1453 saw the Christian era of Constaninople come to an end. Sultan Mehmed led the Ottoman forces to capture the city. One of the first acts was to change Hagia Sophia into a mosque, and to erect minarets to flank the structure. Along with the minarets, the Christian mosaics were plastered over to appease the Muslim practice of not depicting persons in a mosque. (Since Attaturk converted it into a museum, some have been revealed for modern eyes to see.)

Across an expansive park, filled with gardens and fountains, sits the Sultan Ahmed mosque, named for the Ottoman ruler who saw it built in the early 17th century. It, too, is an imposing structure, but not so large as its elder sister across the way. Because the mosque's interior is covered with mosaics, the hue indoors has a definite bluish tint, which has led to its nickname, the Blue Mosque.

It is surrounded by 5 minarets. Its place high on the hill where the Sultans lived makes it impossible to miss from most cityscape vantage points. But yet, the Blue Mosque does not dominate the religious skyline in Istanbul. Many other large and venerated mosques signal skyward with minarets and balooning domes filled with worshipers. None screams out as the most impressive.

It is hard not to see the current and historic Islamic influences here, but in a city so filled with the ancient, it has to be taken in context. There was a successful culture here far before the Ottomans carried Islam into Istanbul. One ongoing example is the Basilica Cistern, an enormous water supply dug into the rock below the Sultanahmet neighborhood by the Romans. It has been held up for centuries by columns, perhaps cast off from other buildings, that support a brick, coffered ceiling. The recycled columns have been put into more utilitarian use by helping to satiate the thirst of Istanbul's citizens.

There also remain the ruins of a race track that sits along side the land of the Blue Mosque. This Hippodrome was the site of chariot races when the Romans ruled this territory. Obilisks remain that marked the center of the track, including one Egyptian import that dates from some 3000 years ago.

Near the Hippodrome sits the museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. Its collection is small but impressive, and we saw a collection of Turkish carpets on loan from a Budapest museum.

The city also has several other historic landmarks. We rode the lift to the top of the Galata Tower, a 14th-centurey structure that was both a religious emblem and a watchtower.

As I mentioned earlier, busnesses can now more easily do what used to be the pervue of religions. And Istanbul has not been immune from the call of capitalism. We visited Taksim Square, where Istanbul's modern retail is rooted. Also, we visited two bazaars that cater both to tourists and to locals: The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market.

So is it any wonder I've had trouble summarizing this journey? There was lots to see and do. Istanbul is a fabulous and welcoming place. I hope some day to return. And with the current way that Turkish Airlines is undercuting others' airfares, I may have the opportunitty sooner than later.

That's all for now! Vienna is coming up next, so blog to you later!

Larry