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Travel Blog of the Gaps
Hello again, Blogonauts! Friday carried me further afield from Florence.
Several times each day, the "Bus Rapide" (in a “rapid” 75 minutes) transports travelers to Siena, Florence's current tourism cousin and former vicious foe. (Siena’s cathedral still proudly displays the 65-foot flagpoles their army captured in a hard-fought battle against Florentine troops … in the year 1260!)
Siena is a true hill town, where streets undulate and level patches are rare. Surrounding the city still today are stretches of vineyards and farmland. Siena claims to have been founded by Remus' son Senius, and depicted throughout the city are Romulus and Remus (founders of Rome) suckling on a she-wolf. And at times, the wolf gets her own starring role without the upstaging babies.
Like Florence, Siena became wealthy during the increased trade that helped usher in the Renaissance, but the return of the Black Plague in the 13th century killed half of its population. The city never fully recovered. But today its central core's architecture is maintained in medieval glory. Walking through its winding streets, it is easy to imagine life in the era of Michelangelo and Donatello.
The town offices remain in the Palazzo Pubblico, which was constructed around 1300. Alongside it stands Torre del Mangia, one of the tallest secular towers in Europe. The Mangia tower stands 330 feet tall and is visible throughout the city and beyond. (Siena's tower reaches more than half the height of the Washington Monument, which is not bad, considering it was built 500 years earlier.) Its pinnacle reaches the same elevation as the cathedral's bell tower ... but because it stands on lower ground, the Torre del Mangia is actually quite a bit taller.
The Palazzo rests at the low end of an enormous town square, the Piazza del Campo, which is laid out almost like a low-sloping amphitheater. (See the accompanying video.) Because of the square’s slope, the locals can be found sprawling on the paving stones facing generally in the same direction, as if on a beach. On the day of my visit, there was a chocolate festival occurring, with several vendors’ booths displaying their goodies.
Trekking through Europe almost requires touring churches. And after a while, it is easy to see them as just one more church building, variations on a common theme.
But on occasion, you find yourself directed by a guide book to a truly unique site.
The Siena Cathedral has to be one of the most beautiful churches (and perhaps building of any kind) on the Continent.
Its striped Gothic architecture, mosaics, masterpiece sculptures and interplay of secular, humanistic, and sacred themes make any visitor feel some kinship with the space.
To be sure there are esoteric, mystical elements, such as the depiction of the wedding of Saint Catherine of Siena to Jesus and the gruesome "Slaughter of the Innocents" floor mosaic.
But along with these are depictions of Aristotle, Greek gods, and a naked "Lady Luck" who stands unsteadily straddling a round ball on the shore and a tippy boat. Allegory is allowed to have a good name here, from a variety of sources.
Siena would have been worth a longer visit, but this simply gives me a reason to come back to Tuscany. (Check out the links in this blog for more information.)
One last day in Florence before I head home, so watch for that description.
Blog to you later!
Several times each day, the "Bus Rapide" (in a “rapid” 75 minutes) transports travelers to Siena, Florence's current tourism cousin and former vicious foe. (Siena’s cathedral still proudly displays the 65-foot flagpoles their army captured in a hard-fought battle against Florentine troops … in the year 1260!)
Siena is a true hill town, where streets undulate and level patches are rare. Surrounding the city still today are stretches of vineyards and farmland. Siena claims to have been founded by Remus' son Senius, and depicted throughout the city are Romulus and Remus (founders of Rome) suckling on a she-wolf. And at times, the wolf gets her own starring role without the upstaging babies.
Like Florence, Siena became wealthy during the increased trade that helped usher in the Renaissance, but the return of the Black Plague in the 13th century killed half of its population. The city never fully recovered. But today its central core's architecture is maintained in medieval glory. Walking through its winding streets, it is easy to imagine life in the era of Michelangelo and Donatello.
The town offices remain in the Palazzo Pubblico, which was constructed around 1300. Alongside it stands Torre del Mangia, one of the tallest secular towers in Europe. The Mangia tower stands 330 feet tall and is visible throughout the city and beyond. (Siena's tower reaches more than half the height of the Washington Monument, which is not bad, considering it was built 500 years earlier.) Its pinnacle reaches the same elevation as the cathedral's bell tower ... but because it stands on lower ground, the Torre del Mangia is actually quite a bit taller.
The Palazzo rests at the low end of an enormous town square, the Piazza del Campo, which is laid out almost like a low-sloping amphitheater. (See the accompanying video.) Because of the square’s slope, the locals can be found sprawling on the paving stones facing generally in the same direction, as if on a beach. On the day of my visit, there was a chocolate festival occurring, with several vendors’ booths displaying their goodies.
Trekking through Europe almost requires touring churches. And after a while, it is easy to see them as just one more church building, variations on a common theme.
But on occasion, you find yourself directed by a guide book to a truly unique site.
The Siena Cathedral has to be one of the most beautiful churches (and perhaps building of any kind) on the Continent.
Its striped Gothic architecture, mosaics, masterpiece sculptures and interplay of secular, humanistic, and sacred themes make any visitor feel some kinship with the space.
To be sure there are esoteric, mystical elements, such as the depiction of the wedding of Saint Catherine of Siena to Jesus and the gruesome "Slaughter of the Innocents" floor mosaic.
But along with these are depictions of Aristotle, Greek gods, and a naked "Lady Luck" who stands unsteadily straddling a round ball on the shore and a tippy boat. Allegory is allowed to have a good name here, from a variety of sources.
Siena would have been worth a longer visit, but this simply gives me a reason to come back to Tuscany. (Check out the links in this blog for more information.)
One last day in Florence before I head home, so watch for that description.
Blog to you later!
- comments
Marvin I'm so glad you got to Siena; I loved it when I was there in '82, too, in some ways more than Florence - I am, after all, a medievalist, & was working on my dissertation, a critical edition of a late 14th-century text, 1 of whose manuscripts in in the Nat'l Library in Torino, @ the time. Not to be picky, but one sentence isn't clear (rare for you!), b/c 2 "it"s do not refer to the same thing: it's the duomo that is on lower ground, allowing the Mangia tower to seem taller.
tobyh But how was the chocolate?T.
anna Looks like the weather is perfect. So great to travel in Italy with you each morning as I enjoy my coffee!