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Travel Blog of the Gaps
It is almost impossible to exaggerate the influence Florence had over the early Renaissance, and upon the arts even afterward, via the purchasing power of the various Medici family members.
Florence began as a republic. But once the Pope crowned Cosimo de Medici as Duke, making him royal and thus "divinely chosen" to rule over Florence, he and his family moved across the Arno River into the Pitti Palace. There they continued to accumulate great artworks that became a kaleidoscope of beauty on the palace walls.
I walked through the Oltrarno ("across the Arno") neighborhood today, and since the Pitti Palace was sitting right there, I decided to venture in.
It is hard to express how many of the world's masterpieces lie within the confines of the City of Florence. The museums in the city's center are astonishing enough. But then there are masterpieces hung above the altars of various churches. Or tombs carved by Michelangelo or Donatello. And then you walk across the river, and here in the palace there are huge rooms wallpapered with masterpieces.
One Pitti-Pal room contained more Raphael paintings than any other place on earth ... except the Vatican, which exceeds this collection by one canvas.
(And if you needed more proof of Florence's significance, consider that all the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles are named for Florentines.)
So I continued to feel a bit overwhelmed by the depth of the collections here. For example, I also stopped by the Brancacci Chapel, where can be found the very first successful 3-dimensional paintings, frescoes really, beginning in the very early 15th century. Is this where the Renaissance began? Can we document the paradigm shift more exactly?
Have I conveyed that I'm having a good time?
Florence has a way of surprising me as a visitor. It is still a vibrant, young, modern city and learning center. There are ways that, at least among some of its population, it remains highly religious, as well. But when you scratch the surface of the Florentine veneer, you find a history of philosophical, political, and artistic achievements that demands attention.
Alright ... so much for depth. Allow me to show you some of that Florentine surface. The city feels youthful, because it is filled with university students and school groups coming to explore its cultural cornucopia. There are also a number of buildings remaining from the Medici days that simply dot the cityscape.
And Florentine cuisine offers its own perspective on Italian food. There are various cheeses and unique recipes available throughout the city. My own dinner this evening was paccheri pasta, served with an eggplant and beef marrow sauce. You won't find this kind of deliciousness at the Olive Garden.
So take a look at some of the pictures, not only to see how Florence's artistic heritage resonates even today, but also to get an idea of what everyday life is like for the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker.
I'm venturing a bit out of town over the next few days, so keep your mouse finger poised to read the coming installments.
Blog to you later! Ciao!
Larry
Florence began as a republic. But once the Pope crowned Cosimo de Medici as Duke, making him royal and thus "divinely chosen" to rule over Florence, he and his family moved across the Arno River into the Pitti Palace. There they continued to accumulate great artworks that became a kaleidoscope of beauty on the palace walls.
I walked through the Oltrarno ("across the Arno") neighborhood today, and since the Pitti Palace was sitting right there, I decided to venture in.
It is hard to express how many of the world's masterpieces lie within the confines of the City of Florence. The museums in the city's center are astonishing enough. But then there are masterpieces hung above the altars of various churches. Or tombs carved by Michelangelo or Donatello. And then you walk across the river, and here in the palace there are huge rooms wallpapered with masterpieces.
One Pitti-Pal room contained more Raphael paintings than any other place on earth ... except the Vatican, which exceeds this collection by one canvas.
(And if you needed more proof of Florence's significance, consider that all the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles are named for Florentines.)
So I continued to feel a bit overwhelmed by the depth of the collections here. For example, I also stopped by the Brancacci Chapel, where can be found the very first successful 3-dimensional paintings, frescoes really, beginning in the very early 15th century. Is this where the Renaissance began? Can we document the paradigm shift more exactly?
Have I conveyed that I'm having a good time?
Florence has a way of surprising me as a visitor. It is still a vibrant, young, modern city and learning center. There are ways that, at least among some of its population, it remains highly religious, as well. But when you scratch the surface of the Florentine veneer, you find a history of philosophical, political, and artistic achievements that demands attention.
Alright ... so much for depth. Allow me to show you some of that Florentine surface. The city feels youthful, because it is filled with university students and school groups coming to explore its cultural cornucopia. There are also a number of buildings remaining from the Medici days that simply dot the cityscape.
And Florentine cuisine offers its own perspective on Italian food. There are various cheeses and unique recipes available throughout the city. My own dinner this evening was paccheri pasta, served with an eggplant and beef marrow sauce. You won't find this kind of deliciousness at the Olive Garden.
So take a look at some of the pictures, not only to see how Florence's artistic heritage resonates even today, but also to get an idea of what everyday life is like for the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker.
I'm venturing a bit out of town over the next few days, so keep your mouse finger poised to read the coming installments.
Blog to you later! Ciao!
Larry
- comments
tobyh Larry:Enjoying your travelogue as always, and especially the food pix and descriptions. Will you import some of your culinary experience for our benefit on Friday night?T.
Madeleine Fitzgerald I don't see the porpoise in this.