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This morning I was on the fast train from from Madrid to Benicassim. Not the fastest train in Spain but we did reach 199 KM/hour. Paloma (my landlady) was at the station to pick me up. The drive to the apartment was only 5 minutes, so as I had hoped, Benicassim is a small town. There is one "main" street - Sant Tomas. From what I could see there are lots of restaurants and some other shops. No chain stores here except the grocery stores. The weather was a bit overcast with heavy looking clouds.
The apartment building is HUGE. 17 floors and 14 apartments on each floor. My apartment is on the 13th floor with an amazing view of the ocean and the mountains behind the village. Paloma was kind enough to show me around. There were a few little things I needed to know......like how to use the stove and where to turn on my hot water. The stove uses a very large gas bottle. The hot water tank is a bit different as I need to plug it in when I want to use hot water. The kitchen is very small but it has everything I need. The living room/dining room has huge patio doors out onto a patio that runs the width of the apartment. The two bedrooms have two twin beds each so there is lots of room for company...hint, hint.
This time of year there is just about no one living in the apartments. On my floor I think I am the only one there all the time. The units are really only used during the summer when families come from Madrid for their vacations. As they are used only in the summer they are not built for winter temperatures. The ceramic tiles make sense in 40 degree heat but when it is 15 degrees they are really cold.
Man it is nice to unpack and know that I don't need to pack again for a few months. There is a grocery store just up the road so that was my first stop. Food and drink. Thank goodness wine is cheap. Less then $3 per bottle for very drinkable wine and for $5 you can have a great wine. I have not had a bad bottle yet! And yes there have been a few bottles consumed.
My first night in my new apartment. The welcome I received from the weather Gods was not very nice. A huge storm complete with thunder that rattled the single pane windows and lighting to make it seem like it was mid day. The rain was torrential and there were rivers running down the street. I'm sure glad I have some groceries so that I didn't need to go out for dinner. This went on for nearly 3 hours. I love a good storm. Welcome to Benicassim. (Sep 14)
I walked into town today to get a feel for the village. Found the library and tried to register for Spanish classes but the was a challenge onto itself. I met a very helpful young English girl that helped me to communicate with the "director" of the school. Alyson is 17 and she has been living in Spain since she was 6 but her English as not been lost as her Mom speaks English at home with the kids.
Alyson's mom Tessa came by and told me about a group of ladies that meet on Thursday morning in Castellon for coffee. They are all British or American expats that meet just to be able to continue to speak English. She has invited to to join them. As for the Spanish classes they are expected to start next week. I arrived just in time it seems. The rest of the day I spent on the beach tanning and swimming. (Sep 15)
Regular life now. Not much happening today. This weekend there is a festival. Every town has a saint associated with it. Benicassim's Saint is Sant Tomas. Sant is spelled this way as it is in Valencian. More about that in another update.
All weekend there are events going on. I will try to go to as many as I can. The actual Saints day is on Tuesday but of course they extend the party as long as they can. School is closed on Tuesday but most businesses are closed Monday and Tuesday. (Sep 16)
Today being Thursday I decided to try to get to Castellon to see the ladies for coffee. They meet for coffee at a cafeteria in the local museum. I needed to catch the bus and then find the museum. I did it! All by myself. I managed to arrive before Tessa and introduced myself to the ladies that were there already. It was a nice morning and I have made some new friends. (Sep 18)
Tonight was the parade of the Giants. Very cool. There are all these huge "people" that are paraded down the street. Check out the Benicassim 1 album it will make more sense. I was home by 10ish but the rest of the town was just getting started. The live music and dancing was due to start at 23:30 but this being Spain I'm sure it started at 00:30. (Sep 19)
"Running of the Bulls and Training of the Bulls" - The running of the bulls is similar to the running of the bulls in Pamplona. The bulls run down the street for a couple of blocks but the difference here is that is pretty easy for people to get out of the way. People could get injured but it is very unlikely that would happen.
The training of the bulls is a chance for the locals to feel like they are bull fighters. The bull does not die in these events. People tease the bull inside the bull ring and the bull chases them. Seems kinda cruel to just tease the bull but the crowds love it.
I met Jose Luis and Paloma for a drink and a tapa. There was an event called the Ruta de la Tapa that was put on by some of the local restaurants. For 5 euros you get a drink and a fancy tapa. Some of the tapas were really good other not so much. (Sep 20)
More tapas and drinks tonight with Jose Luis and Paloma. Also an event back in the bull ring where the bull has a frame on his horns that has been lit on fire. The flames are not burning him just the fuel that is in the containers. There was a huge crowd to watch this event. (Sep 21)
A special mass was held in honor of Sant Tomas. After the mass the statue of Sant Tomas was carried through the streets with all the congregation following.
This afternoon there was a very loud event held called the Mascletà, an explosive display of co-ordinated firecracker and fireworks that takes place in the afternoon. The noise was amazing. I was using ear plugs and it was still incredibly loud.
Today was the final event.....the fireworks. The Valencia region is famous for the production of three things. Ceramic tiles, oranges and fireworks. Paloma and I walked down to see them. Just as they started it POURED. We were soaked to the skin but it was still a great event. (Sep 22)
So that is the start of my life in Benicassim. Paloma and Jose Luis (my landlady and her husband ) have been a huge help to making my life here that little bit easier. And my new friends Alyson, Tessa and the coffee club have also helped me a great deal. Sometimes it can feel overwhelming. But day by day it gets easier.
As I am going to stay in Benicassim for a few more months and you would like to send mail my way this is my address:
Tove Pedersen
Aptos Princicassim 1-1-13-4
C Bisbe Serra 5
12560
Benicassim (Castellon)
Spain
Don't send anything of value (letters and photos are of value to me but not to a postal worker). The Spanish mail system does not have the best reputation for delivering packages in tact. I also have a local phone number for the next few months (34)-625-812-122. If you do call PLEASE remember that I am 9 hours ahead of Vancouver time (GMT +1).
Take care of yourselves. I miss everyone very much.
Tove
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