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We had accommodation booked at the Butch Cassidy Hostel in Tupiza, our first stop in Bolivia. We just had to get there. We had our bus booked to take us to La Quiaco, the northern most town in Argentina but then had to cross the border and find a bus for the second leg of the days journey. We had read that crossing the border can take 3 hours so it could be a late arrival in Tupiza. We were soon in a taxi after getting of our first bus delivering us to Argentinian customs. There was no queue and we were at Bolivian customs in minutes. The guy there asked which direction we were going - into or out of Bolivia. We told him in and he just waved us through, didn't want to see our passports let alone stamp them. We questioned him several times which annoyed him as he was happy lazing around doing nothing. Talking to others who crossed the same day, no one had their passport examined! We went in search of an ATM to get some Bolivian currency. The most we could withdraw in one go was around £50! Then off on foot again to look for the bus terminal only to find it has now moved a mile or so out of town - another taxi which only cost 50 pence. The bus depot even though it was new wasn't up to Chile or Argentinian standards. There was a bus to Tupiza in 5 minutes time. We quickly found a loo before boarding only to find 5 minutes meant 30 minutes, no problem we had got from the Argentinian bus terminal to the Bolivian one and withdrawn cash in just 45 minutes. Change of clocks, we are now 5 hours behind BST. We noticed a marked difference in Bolivia to Argentina, Villazon the border town and Tupiza both seem to have masses of buildings unfinished that are being lived in. Prices are a lot cheaper here and that is reflected in the standard of living. The other noticeable difference is the rubbish that is littered liberally without any concerns at all by the locals. We booked a 4-day 4-wheel drive tour of the Bolivian southern altiplano region to leave on Sunday giving us 3 days here. The tours are arranged for groups of 4 people, the tour agency was confident that 2 more would book for Sunday. We had 3 days here before setting off, we kept our fingers crossed that our tour would work out for our requested departure date. Our first day here we went horse riding. It's not far from here where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid made their last robbery and reached their sticky end (which is not how it was portrayed in the movie). Donna's named her horse 'little s***' as it seemed to go where it wanted and not where Donna wanted. This area is now famous for the Dakar rally. Traditionally it started in Paris and finished in Dakar, Senegal. Due to security threats in Mauritania, which led to the cancellation of the 2008 rally, races since 2009 have been held in South America. The route is different every year but in 2016 it came through Tupiza. Buying food, toiletries, etc here is harder, all we can find is small shops with very little choice. We made our way to the southern part of town to where we thought was a small supermarket, only to find it was an enormous street market. We got lots of strange looks, there were no other westerners in sight! Our second day we walked up a peak, Cerro de la Cruz overlooking the town. There is a small church at the start of the ascent, photos we had seen of this show it to be painted brilliantly white but we found it plastered in graffiti. We also took in the other popular viewpoint Cerro de la Christi, all of the religious statues / shrines were also heavily graffitied, something unthinkable in Argentina or Chile. We popped into the tour agency to see how the recruitment of two more passengers was going. The lady had no takers for Sunday but a French couple had emailed, they were arriving on the night bus from La Paz Saturday morning. They only had 2 weeks in Bolivia and wanted to get off the bus (at 6.00am) and go on the jeep tour immediately which normally leaves at 6.00am. The question presented to us was do we want to go a day early (tomorrow). We considered the possibility of not being able to go on Sunday if no one else booked and went for the Saturday departure just a little later than the usual start time. Then came a very busy afternoon, we whizzed back to our digs in a Tuk-tuk (just like the autorickshaws you get in India), that cost us 20 pence each. We had bought Donna a hair colour in Salta (to hide those greys) but hadn't got around to applying it. This job was scheduled for tomorrow but now it was a priority. My 3rd time of doing this and I'm definitely getting quicker at it. We repacked, bought some extra food (in case) and negotiated a price for shortening our hostel booking by one night. Instead of £16 for our last night we got away with just £9.00 (we had booked on the internet and it was too late to cancel the last night, the hostel would still have to pay the commission to the website (can't name who it was as our blog website doesn't allow us to). Early bed in readiness for an early start.
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