Even though we had been told that Waterton National Park in Alberta was small but most definitely worth a visit we had decided we didn't have time. Instead we would head across the border into the USA and enter Glacier National park on the west side and drive the 'Road to the sun' to the east side. With a brief Wi-Fi connection in Radium we discovered the 'road to the sun' was closed from the west gate to Logan pass along with all of the west side of Glacier NP due to a fire near the road. The east side was open but how do we get there? We also managed to obtain a 2016 Waterton NP brochure and the trails looked fantastic. We would cross the continental divide again, squeeze in a day or two at Waterton and from there it would be a short drive to the east gate of Glacier NP in Montana, USA. The drive took us by surprise, we headed away from the rugged mountains past lush green golf courses, resort hotels, saw around 20 Porsches and then turned back to climb through the Rocky Mountains once more. We crossed at Crows nest pass which was just a gentle climb, the mountains were more like large green rolling hills. We were back in ranch and farmland country. Behind golden fields that had been harvested lay the lofty peaks we sought. We entered Waterton NP and knew we were back in mountain country just from all the bear warning signs. At the visitor centre we learnt that most of the park and trails were shut due to a major fire last year, a current fire burning and too much bear activity. The one big day walk that I knew Donna would do and enjoy was closed. The other option 'The Crypt Lake trail' she read about and said definitely no. I wasn't going to argue I knew that it would be way out of her comfort zone. What to do! The Crypt trail is one of National Geographic's top 20-day hikes. Donna insisted I do it without her, on the basis that there is bound to be someone else I could walk with. Apart from a couple of rafting trips we have done everything together in North America so far. The hike is accessed by a boat shuttle and there is only 1 per day at this time of year so anyone else doing it would be starting at the same time as me so I said yes to this opportunity. We sat on the 'Red chairs' with the lake and mountain view and it was blowing a hooley, the forecast for tomorrow was just a light breeze. The alarm buzzed, I could tell that it wasn't windy anymore but when I opened the camper door I couldn't see the lake let alone the mountains - thick fog, oh b*****. With a couple of hours before the boat I thought there was time for it to clear. It lifted a teeny bit but I took the chance that it would improve and took the boat anyway. I wasn't alone there was 25 of us. Once we disembarked on the far shore people seemed reluctant to be the first on the trail - a black bear had been spotted by hikers yesterday. I wasn't alone. I hiked with Jake and Morgan from South Ontario and Matt and Emily from Nova Scotia. We had a good pace and soon stretched out our lead on the rest of todays hikers. There is only one return boat, we had 7 hours maximum to get to Crypt lake and back. A good, steady uphill path but in thick hill fog until slowly blue sky and mountain tops started to peep through. After a couple of hours, the interesting section started and we were joined by another party 3 strong. A narrow path traversed a steep scree slope, the drop was there below us but obscured by a white fluffy blanket. Next came a short ladder which was the key to reaching the tunnel entrance. The tunnel was a crouch and shuffle for around 60 feet, rucksacks and poles snagged as the dark hole narrowed and lowered until finally we were back in daylight. The fun was not over. A cable was fixed in place to hold onto to tackle what was more of an easy scramble than a path around and above steep cliffs. The rock face was immediately to your left, the drop to your right, the bit to stand and walk on was narrow, sloping, craggy and loose in places - not to be rushed. Once again, the extent of the drop was unknown because of mist below. Back on a wide safe path we reached Crypt lake except that too was clouded out. With just 2.5 hours to get there we had plenty of time to relax and have lunch. Crypt lake magically appeared before us as it's misty veil lifted. Now to tackle the scramble, tunnel, ladder and scree path in the opposite direction. After a short shower the sun had come out and the drops were now on show. We all took it at a sensible pace and enjoyed the excitement of it all - Donna made the right choice, she wouldn't have enjoyed it one bit. We detoured on the descent to take in Hell Roaring Falls. Very pretty but some bloody big drops so we viewed with caution. All 25 made it in time for the returning boat although not everyone went beyond the scree path! Whilst we had reasonable weather, back in Waterton village Donna suffered downpour after downpour. The lake shore hike she had planned never happened. We had already seen dear wandering through the campsite whilst we were having breakfast, during one the days downpours Donna could here a banging noise. Wondering what was flapping on the camper she peered out to find a deer kicking our steps! Later she saw a man walking his dogs heading to where Donna had already spied deer. She warned this fella as the deer here attack people and pets. He took no notice and proceeded on shortly to turn tail and run with his dogs with deer in pursuit of them! We didn't see a bear on the trail today but as the boat was docking back at Waterton village there was a black bear further along the shore - they are definitely here! Last hike and last day in Canada (until we return to sell the camper). Off to tackle the US border tomorrow. Farewell Canada it's been fantastic (except there are too many trees and bears).