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We arrived by boat into Buenos Aires at 7pm and got a taxi to Che Legarto hostel, which is back in the centre of the city. Almost as soon as we arrived the withdrawal symptoms kicked in and we were almost forced to find our way to Ugi's for more pizza. We were pleased to discover that it was not a one off, but a chain across Buenos Aires and we didn`t have to wonder far to settle our stomachs. However, we did spot Swedish David walking past so all made a rather a stealthy duck under the counter as he walked past to the amusement of the pizza maker! Harriet, Marso, Marc and I returned to the hostel and played some table tennis and met Rachel and Nicola from London. We had a couple of beers and i started chatting to David, the Colombian that worked at the hostel. We contemplated a night out but decided to go to bed around 1pm and get a good night sleep instead as tomorrow would be New Years Eve.
Our decision was a smart one, next morning the 6 of us headed back to Le Boca as 3 of them hadn´t been there already, it rained when we were on the bus there though and the colours and atmosphere were not as lively as the first visit. However, with 6 of us gringos we felt that safety in numbers would allow us to venture a few streets outside the tourist zone to see the Boca Juniors football stadium. Sadly, we have arrived during the summer and there are no matches until February, so watching a game will have to wait until next time. Unsuprisingly, there was a statue of Maradona just inside the ground, we walked through the shop but into the ground itself, partly because you had to pay and mainly because Marc and I were heavily outvoted by non-football loving girls.
We got the bus back out of Le Boca, whilst Rachel and Nicola went back to the hostel. Marc, Marso, Harriet and I headed to Florida street once more, but this time armed with 600US dollars between Harriet and I. We started strolling through and it wasn`t long before the familar sound of "cambio cambio" was heard. After a few snubs we decided to give this illegal money changing malarkey a try. We decided to change our money 300US dollars at a time incase we got fake notes or any other disaster occured. Harriet went first and approached a lady, who after some negotiating agreed to give us 6.25 Peso`s for every 1US dollar. The offical rate is only 4.7 to 1! We followed the lady into a deserted shopping mall and then into a jewellers which had a rather unusual booth at one end. There was a hidden counter and here we handed over our money (keeping it in arms reach in case things got messy and WWIII broke out). We checked the notes for authenticity and wondering on down the street looking for someone else to change the other 300US.
I recognised a chap from the previous time we walked down the street so thought at least he may be back if something doesn´t go right. He offered us 6.5 to 1 which we agreed to. We asked for the money to be kept in eyesight and he said "of course" (well in Spanish, Marc was translating) and pointed to the small stalls that litter the middle of the street. We walked over and found to our suprise that at the back of the stall was a small counter. So in the middle of the street we got out the calculater and worked out the amount, it was now with cash in my hand that a policeman walked over with the money changer, Marc and I all pinned behind this counter. I don't know about Marc, but my heart certainly skipped a beat, but to my relief the policeman shook hands with everyone and went on his way leaving us to complete the transaction. We called in the exper money checker (Harriet) who verified the notes (well sort of said they seem ok) and off we went to spend our money.
The girls wanted to go shopping at the big mall, and seeing as we went to the football stadium Marx and I thought it was only fair. The shopping centre was huge and had a giant painted ceiling which was pretty cool. More cool though was that both Harriet and Marso bought what they wanted in the first shop they went into - it may have taken 40 minutes in one shop but Marc and I were relieved to say the least. We went for a chinese in the shopping centre (which was the first meal i had bought out since arriving that didn´t contain either chips or pizza!).
We returned to the hostel around 5pm and were met by Lee who had come back from Iguasu to spend New Year with us. After a little nap we went down for a dinner put on by the hostel at 10pm. The dinner consisted of half a sausage each some rice, some bread and some tomato not the best value for money but it lined the stomach just enough. We played drinking games after dinner and danced at midnight (seriously upstaged by the Colombians). After much merryment we went out at 2am to a club around the corner. The music was awesome again and all parties had a great night. We got back at 6am in the morning at which point i was told it was one of the Colombians birthdays and thus 2 bottles of champagne needed to be opened, so between 6am and 8am we worked our way through champagne waiting for breakfast to start before passing out in bed. Happy New Year All!!!
On New Year´s Day we got up around 1pm and Marc, Marso, Lee, Harriet and I went on the hunt for food. The streets were empty and the restaurants were closed, after about 40 minutes we found an open restaurant and took a seat outside. After another 40 minutes and now really hungry we hadnt been served, despite waiters twice starting to take our orders so we moved inside. We served straight away, and also joined by 3 people Marc had met previously on his troubles. Marso decided that the best hangover cure was an asparagus omelette though, which us Brits thought was very continental (or down right weird)! Hunger satisfied we returned to the hostel where Rachel, Nicola and Lee had emerged.
Lee told us that the night before whilst drunk (as usual) he was mugged. After the initial shock and concern i couldn´t help but laugh. He had tried to follow us to the club but got lost. He asked 2 passer`s by for directions but instead they pushed him over. Whilst on the floor one bloke sat on him, whilst the other took out his wallet, took the money and gave the wallet back, which whilst not pleasant i think is at least semi-considerate. However, what made me laugh is that afterwards Lee was too drunk to stand back up so was left like a starfish on his back in the street staring at the sky wondering how he would get up, yet alone home. Fortunately, he managed eventually and stumbled into bed.
That evening we had a steady one and apart from the numerous free cocktails managed most of the day without any alcohol. We played some table teniis until we broke the ball. There was meant to be a table tennis tournament that evening, but with no spare ball and no shops open the other travellers were a little dissapointed. Instead we played werewolves for the evening. We recruited 2 Swedish lads, Carl and Jacob and killed a couple of hours in a state of paranoia!
There was also no electricity in the top floors of the hostel where we were staying so I dont think werewolves helped the girls get to sleep that evening.
Next morning we got up in time for breakfast, but our day slowed down after that because there was now no water, as well as no electricity. Lee in particular had not had the best start to 2013 especially as he now had a dodgy stomach too! At 11am the 6 of us headed to the bus station to buy our tickets for the next day to the relevent place. After we headed to Palermo, a district of Buenos Aires. Rachel and Nicola went their separate way whilst 4 of us continued to the zoo. The zoo was ok, although some of the cages were small and several of the animals had lost their mind and were walking in circles. We found out when we got back though that the polar bear had died 2 days before due to overheating which was sad. When we returned we cooked up a big bowl of pasta and potato salad between the 6 of us. At 9pm open bar started at the hostel. It was 7.50pd for all you can drink for 2 hours!! Cocktails and beer included! To say we worked the barman (Walter) hard that night is an understatement. His face seemed to drop when i brought out the industrial sized keg that the breakfast coffee is stored in and suggested he fills it with Sex on the Beach! Instead, we settled on a couple of pitchers. Lots of drinking games later and having dragged Carl back out of bed we headed out to a local bar. Carl and Marc beat the sweatiest Mexicans in the whole of south america at a game of pool and us Brits kept on doing what we do, drinking!
Next morning we had a lie in, despite Nicola attempting to wake us all for breakfast. We woke at 10.55am and somehow i persuaded the manager that we would all check out in 5 minutes. I think it was around 12 before we actually checked out but we weren´t charged in any case. I think a story about waiting for the showers which didn´t work persuaded him to be kind to us.
Our bus was at 10pm at night, and with all the sights of Buenos Aires ticked off the list we spent the whole day playing table tennis, eating Ugi´s for lunch and dinner and of course played the odd game of werewolves. We were so lively even managed a couple of hours sleep on the floor of the reception area.
That evening we said our sad goodbyes to Lee, Marc, Marso, Rachel, Nicola, Jacob and Carl and got on the bus to Cordoba for a 10 hour night ride. After 2 weeks of none-stop boozing with one 19 hour boozeathon thrown in i´d quite like a healthy few days. However, im told Cordoba is a party city so maybe the liver will have to wait a few more days to grow back!
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