There is a lot of stuff written about Margaret River. It is one of Australias most prolific wine producing regions as well as an area of outstanding natural beauty and so, naturally, it attracts a lot of attention. The stretch of coast that it inhabits between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leuwin is also home to one of the densest collections of quality surf breaks in Australia. My memories of it from a brief visit in 1993 were vague and involved the Settlers Tavern ( the main pub) and an obsession with milk, which caused me to become pudgy around the middle.

The town itself is actually set back from the coast by about ten miles and consists of a main street bookended by the primary and high schools at one end and the river at the other. There has been some new development in the form of a mall with a Woolies, but it is clear from the numbers of locals who still shop in the little IGA that this was an unwelcome intrusion into the fiercely organic, local produce ethos that has been here for years. Many residents reserve the bulk of their groceries for the excellent weekly farmers market that is held behind the old, white clapboard community hall, where fresh veges and delicious local apples rub shoulders with local cheeses, wine, olive oil and organic meat and eggs ( and chocolates, herbal medicines, italian biscuits, french patisserie, - i could go on for a while....) In fact, the Margaret River region is the sort of place that lends itself to creating best ever statements like- best Farmers Market in Australia, best beach, tastiest icecream, presttiest forest, friendliest campground, and so on. So, with no further ado, may I present the Margs Road Less Travelled Awards:

Best Wine Award- no contest here, even with about 200 wineries in a 50km stretch. Watershed Wines had the nicest Sauv Blanc, Semmillon, Merlot and Zinfandel of anyone, although we reserve a place in out hearts for Adinfern who do a mean Cab Sauv and Port.

Best Beach: tricky, but from the kids point of view, definitely Contos- see piccie. Its tucked around a protective bluff that shields it from the southerlies and has the clearest, aquamarine water that i have seen yet. No crowds, probably due to the longish cliff walk down, and lots of rocks to climb on coupled with Ned having his first really fun surf, makes this place our favourite accessible beach. The last time we went, it was hot, there was only a tiny bit of wind and it was dead flat. As we walked over the cliff, a pod of dolphins cruised in close to the shore and played for half an hour. Sun on your back, the sounds of nature in your ear and a ballet in the sea just for us? Just perfect.

Favourite inaccessible beach award goes to Boranup. Tom and I went for an early surf one day, and lost ourselves totally in the Karri forest looking for this place. We finally found it, tucked below a punishing, rocky, sandy goat track and it blessed us with crystal 2-3 foot offshore peelers. Travel and exploration occasionally presents moments that are pure magic- this was definitely one of them.

Most Jaw-droppingly expensive item- goes to the solid, old growth Jarrah table in a gallery in Boranup. Yours, for a cool $35000. Seriously?! its a table!!!

Craziest Place- the aquatic centre on open day. Loosely controlled kid anarchy in the pool.

Best Coincidence- running into an old friend of mine from Plymouth days, in a coffee house at the end of the road where we were staying. We had not been in contact for 13 years, but the universe works in excellently mysterious ways.

I could go on, but i am sure you get the picture. Our home for the 2 months that we spent in MR was Big Valley camp which was about ten minutes out of town, on a working sheep station. The camping area was semi structured, so there was no strict regimented rows of vans so loved by Big 4's. The ablutions block was in a converted shed and consisted of subdivided corrugated steel stalls hat boasted power showers and spotlessly clean tiles. A large communal fire pit provided sociable, warm evenings and the general ambience was of practical goodheartedness. The camp hosted events including the cape to cape bike race- an off road affair that started at Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leuwin and excitingly for me, an endurance equestrian event. This was an 80km race and I got to sit outside my caravan on a sunny evening with a Mango beer and watch beautiful horses being put through their paces by the vet. I have always loved horses, so this was a real treat. Which reminds me of one last Best Award categoy- Best Horse Ride. This used to be owned by Big River Rides in Kalbarri for their wonderful river crossing, but they do not do that anymore, sadly and so this award passes to Jesters Flat. Admittedly, the ride we did was only an hour and we did not canter because the kids were riding too, but the horses were the best schooled animals i have ever ridden and that includes friend's ponies. Their mouths were so sensitive, they responded to the gentlest of pressure and they were in fantastic condition. After the ride, we were plyed with fresh bread, dukkah and local olive oil and the kids were allowed to play in the fabulous treehouse. All in all, Jesters Flat sums up the MR experience, unspoilt, beautiful, high quality and a still, little bit quirky. What a place.