Elliston was a quiet, pretty village. Steep sandstone cliffs designed its Northern border and along this, a sculpture trail had been created.

At the foot of the cliffs, the surf breaks took intimidation to an art form as well. It took Tom 2 days to screw up the courage to paddle out at Blackfellas, scene of the frightful death in 2000 of young local surfer Jevan Wright from a Great White attack. Part of the problem was finding your way down the treacherous, sandy rock faces, the other bit was paddling out across 400m of flat, kelpy water to a massive, barreling lefthander that looked easy from 50m up, but was eating surfers for breakfast once they made it out there.

Tom made his move early one morning, before we had even got up and happily reurned, 2 hours later, all limbs intact, with that feeling of invincibility that blesses the survivor of a near death experience. Interestingly, two months after we left Elliston, there was another Great White attack there.

Next stop, Coffin Bay. Cheerful lot down here....