Sitting comfortably on a rush-hour subway train I became suddenly aware of the lack of sweaty odour and grey suits around. In fact, the atmosphere was oddly serene for 6pm on a Wednesday. There wasn't a single man in sight and when I looked around at the adverts lining the carriage they were mostly pink, beaming enthusiastically about wedding dresses and facial routines. This was a 'Women Only' carriage; another example of the many phenomenon particular to J...

Things I have noticed after seven weeks in Japan: The Japanese may as well have a PhD in 'disgust management'. As expected, white masks covering nose and mouth are a common sight in Japan (though I didn't realise they are worn by the sick, to avoid spreading their own germs around). There is a hypersensitivity here that would be considered OCD in the UK. It seems to date back pretty far. Taking your shoes off indoors is an age-old custom still respected in ...

What do I find this morning?! Mount Fuji perving in at me through my hotel window. Rude. :)

Mount Koya - 10/10/12 - 18:14 I'm the only person sat on a bus waiting for it to leave. The bus driver is outside having a fag, biding his time before the exact time approaches for the two of us to head off. I'm quite sure I'll be his only passenger because he is the first person I've seen for half an hour (having just escaped a rather ghoulish fate at the hands of 9th century zombies). Despite it being 6 o'clock, it feels more like midnight in this remote m...

We were pre-warned about the importance of giving gifts in Japan: One must carry a wrapped gift everywhere One goes in the likely event One is surprised with a present and thus required (by the unofficial 'law of politeness') to reciprocate. The ritual of handing over the gift is an art-form in itself. You must present it with both hands and bow to the recipient whilst disparaging the gift you're giving as much as possible, regardless of what it is, to gain ...