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Thursday 15 August
Another day out with Richard from Cotswolds Guided Tours, this time on their "Famous Cotswolds Tour" that takes in some of the better known localities. We started with Lower Slaughter (from Old English, meaning muddy place) which is probably our pick for the most picturesque village we saw over the three days in the Cotswolds. A Water Mill which is now a very busy little gift shop is the only retail outlet. The cottages with typical English flower gardens border the stream (River Eye) and we follow the river past "The Slaughters Country Inn" Hotel and further on, what was the Lord of the Manor's home, and is now a very exclusive hotel.
On to Bourton-on-the-Water which has five low bridges over the river, built between 1654 and 1953, that has led to some smart person to name it "The Venice of the Cotswolds." Lots of visitors enjoying the fine weather and the many small shops. We learn that the town celebrates Christmas by erecting a large decorated tree in the middle of the Windrush river, and holds an annual football match in the shallow water, the aim of which is to splash the spectators. It costs 40p to spend a penny at the public loo and £2.10 for a single scoop of ice cream so we must be on holiday.
We return to muddy places by a visit to Upper Slaughter this time. A beautiful unspoilt high-wold village, which was originally a farming community. We pose for a photo next to the deep ford in the river which regularly sinks low cars driven by visitors. The local farmer pulls them out we are told.
Lunch was back home at Stow-on-the-Wold where we visit Huffkins Cafe. This Cotswolds institution serves good lunches,cream teas and cakes. We had a warming vegetable soup. According to our guide Richard, Tolkien's inspiration for the gates of Moria in The Hobbit, came from the back door of St. Edward's church. So we dutifully take a photo. A good peel of bells, parts of the Tower date back to the year 1086. The town also hosts "The Oldest Pub in England" in Digbeth Street. Now we've heard this one before, but the Porch House has been dated by the Guinness Book of Records to 974AD and is the real deal.
We make two further visits in the afternoon. First to Adlestrop which keeps links to the author Jane Austen quiet, lest the village be flooded with fans. Jane's cousins, the Leigh Family, owned Adlestrop Park and the Parsonage. The family featured famous ancestors but also had inheritance problems and faced bankruptcy. Jane called them her "poor relations" and frequented the small church of St. Mary Magdalene.
Finally we spend time at Great Tew, which features more thatched cottages than you can poke a stick at. The Falkland Arms is a charming 16th Century pub with flagstone floors and lots of beer tankards hanging from the low ceilings. For those who like a bit of celebrity gossip we hear that Harry and Megan had a bolt hole up at the Manor until news got out, and Posh & Becks own a mansion outside the village, and Posh likes to pop in to the pub for a drink when she is home.
The Bell Inn in Stow was a good choice for our evening meal.
Friday 16 August
We had hoped to explore some of the walks around Stow-on-the-Wold but lots of rain is promised for today so we stay around the village. As we are not on the clock we go for the full breakfast at the Stag, which includes black pudding but not the foreign hash brown thankfully. We catch up on blogs and check out the antique shops, where Kathy found an ornate white metal thimble.
We opt to try out the cream tea at Huffkins. Not as busy as previous days due to the rain and yes, we did enjoy the 2 scones each plus big pot of tea. The cost of £7.60 each, not so much?
Dinner was at the King's Arms at Stow, but was spoilt by the 3 dogs in the bar. We have noticed that some places regard themselves as "dog friendly." Not sure why the animals cannot be left outside. Not a sign of progress unless you are an "animal lover."
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