Monday 19 August

After an 8.30am breakfast we get back on the trail for a short 2.8km from Walton to the turn-off to Lanercost Priory. About 1km off the Hadrian's Wall Trail, this monastery was sacked by Henry VIII but much of the church survived and is still used for services today. It was also the site where Edward I convalesced for 6 months whilst trying to recover from dysentery. Unfortunately for him he died shortly after leaving. We act like tourists and try on the Roman Helmets for a photo, although other than the stones in the walls, the site has no Roman heritage.

Back to the track up Craggle Hill, we continue to Hare Hill where we actually see our first in situ fragment of the wall. Up until this time it was marked on the map, and sometimes we could see what might have been a ditch which was once part of the wall complex. We eat our packed lunch at Banks, sitting on benches overlooking the small village green and with a great aspect west toward the coast.

As we continue eastwards the remains of the wall start to come thick and fast, including turrets, milecastles and large complex earthworks that defined the military zone on the south side of the wall (yes south side, there was an additional trench before the wall on the north side). At 10km we arrive at Birdsowald Roman Fort where we spend some £15 to walk around the ruined walls of the fort and look at a small area that has been excavated. The remainder of the site has not been touched by English Heritage who administer such monuments. At least the cup of tea was welcome.

We now find ourselves walking along significant sections of the wall up to 3m high and 2 - 3m thick, including the foundations of bridgeworks. Once in the village of Gilsland we leave the track and walk nearly 2km up the hill to our B&B at "Hill on the Wall." A lovely old house with big rooms. Very comfortable. Unfortunately, we have to walk about 2km to the other side of the village to the Sampson Inn for our evening meal. Thankfully our experience was in sharp contrast to the night before and we were well looked after.