Adiós Córdoba, hola Tolédo

Córdoba’s third UNESCO heritage sight is classified as “intangible.” The Festival of Patios has been held here for just over 100 years. Although suspended during the Spanish Civil War, it was reintroduced in the 1950s. For 2 weeks every April when the flowers are in full bloom, and before soaring temperatures scorch the leaves, it is considered an honour for the residents of Córdoba to open up their patios to the public and compete for prizes and recognition. Entrance is free to all. During the remainder of the year a handful of these patios open on a daily basis for €5 per person.
On our last day in Córdoba we visited the 5 of them that are currently open - all were grouped within a couple of streets of each other in a small, but charming enclave just beyond the Alcázar. The patios are lovely...still full of flowers and greenery. The owners are welcoming - most offered some kind of regional cake or biscuit. Two of the owners had very friendly dogs - Edie and Jacko (who having taken a shine to Trevor had to be held back in order to prevent him leaving with us). Edie’s owner had taken part in the competition this year for the first time. Another owner had been participating for 49 years and had won almost 40 prizes! This largest of patios was the ground floor of a dwelling that in days gone by had housed 7 families - who all lived on the upper floor and shared the kitchen, bathroom and laundry area off that patio.
We loved all the patios and although they were very similar in a lot of ways - they were also all different. Most had similar coloured plant pots - Mediterranean blue....although one had pots that were much more pastel. All had some kind of well, or water trickling in the background ....which one was our favourite? Hard to say...let’s just say that we’re happy that we’re not on the judging panel!
Through one of the portinas (small stone gates) and just around the corner from the streets where we saw the patios, is the entrance to the Royal Stables. Although there’s an entrance fee for shows & grounds, a walk through some of the old stables is free. Having seen the Royal Andalusian horse show in their permanent home in Jerez last year, we went the free route! Devoid now of horses, there are a few old carriages on display in this 90 stall, high-arched building - with a cobbled floor that is so clean and well worn, it gleams!
A short walk past the Alcázar and the Mezquita took us to the Plaza del Potro
.....with a statue of a small horse in its centre, it was the original animal market place of Cördoba. We entered an old inn dating back to the 15th century. Posada del Potro has rooms arranged around a communal courtyard......apparently it was the meeting place for thieves and bandits in 16th & 17th century Andalusia. Nowadays it’s the home of the Flamenco Centre. Entrance to this charming old building is free and contains a history of the origin of music and dance, beginning with the first non-gypsy Flamenco singer Silverio Aguilar in 1823. Upstairs there’s a display and history of the evolution of the guitar, which dates back to the 8th century.
Directly across from the inn is the Museum of Fine Arts, which was partially closed “due to technical difficulties”.....but as some parts were still open, we decided to go in. On this, our last afternoon in Córdoba we must have been “on a roll” - for due to the problem, entrance was - once again - free!
We got to tour 3 rooms in all. One displaying modern art, one 16-17th religious art and the other displaying the works of Julio Romero de Torres (1874-1930). The museum which chronicles his life was the part that was closed. Both museums are located in the old Hospital of la Caridad.
This artist who was born, died and lived most of his life in Córdoba was mainly a portrait painter - although there are a few pieces of his Still Life and Pastoral paintings on display. His portraits included political and literary figures plus celebrities...in all he painted more than 500 portraits!
We ended the afternoon in Plaza de La Corredera - where the beautiful mosaics that are now displayed in the Alcázar were found. This huge Castilian square is one of the best places in town to sit, drink, eat - and people watch. An enormous closed rectangle surrounded by colonnades, it houses the municipal food market and has 3 floors of private apartments. Beneath the large rounded arches are numerous small bars and cafès - outside of which are a mass of tables, chairs and huge white umbrellas.
On this late afternoon the centre of the plaza was filled with children playing, while parents observed from the “sidelines” of their café seats. Mostly unattended or bothered by adult intervention the kids played “old school” style - in groups, both large and small. All ages were having fun running around, riding bikes and scooters, kicking a ball - and (mostly) sorting out their own issues. On this very warm sunny, afternoon it was a perfect end to our stay in Córdoba.....except after packing we later returned to that other meeting place - Plaza de Las Tendillas for gelato!
The next morning we were in a taxi to the station and off to Tolédo (via Madrid). With previously booked tickets we had plenty of time for a quick coffee before boarding the train....but ***note to travellers....this year in the locations we’ve visited there’s a level of security in the train stations, we’ve not encountered previously in our travels through southern Spain. After tickets are checked, all suitcases, bags, jackets, etc have to go through a scanner - similar to when boarding a plane....so allow extra time***
Our tickets had been changed - but no worries, we were still facing forwards!
The train soon got up to a high speed of 250 kph, as we passed small hills and valleys, making a couple of stops in the 1st hour. We picked up speed again after the 2nd stop, journeying now through mountain ranges and flat agricultural plains that quickly became greener as we headed north...this time reaching a top speed of 299 kph! This clean, comfortable (and fast) train arrived in Madrid in less than the 2 hours scheduled....it pulled into the station, covering the 296 km distance in just 1 hr and 40 mins!
The terminal in Madrid resembles an airport - with long walks after arrival....it also has a frantic “big-city” feel. The station takes its name from its location in the Atocha neighbourhood and retains the original façade - although a massive fire caused a large rebuild in 1892. Expanded over the years, the old building was taken out of service in 1992 when the modern terminal was opened in order to serve high speed trains. With luggage in tow, we spent the time waiting for our next train in a café in the attractive original terminal - now a huge covered area of 4,000 sq metres of shops and cafés - known as the “tropical garden” due to the greenery that fills its whole centre section.
A separate area is used for shorter distance departures - but once again our baggage and belongings went through the scanner before boarding the train for Tolédo. In less than half an hour, we arrived in the much calmer environment of this historic town...its railway station echoes the architecture of the city, with a clock tower similar to the others in the churches here.
Our taxi wound up, down and around the warren of streets before arriving at a small plaza...the closest place to our rental that could accommodate a car. The friendly driver directed us to an even narrower street just around the corner, where - with a code given to us by the manager of the place - we entered a small courtyard.....and with a welcome from the cleaning ladies, we were at our new home for this week!