TOLÉDO

From the inside of this amazing city, it’s hard to realize how impenetrable it is - and has been for over 2,000 years. To appreciate this, you have to cross over the Tagus River which winds around the city, creating a natural moat. Seventy percent of this ancient city is surrounded by water, its walled defences sit atop a huge gorge....and then the city rises up even further. When building its first defensive wall around 50 B.C. the Romans named it Toletum, which means “growing up.”
In 1986 UNESCO registered the whole city as a World Heritage Sight.....it is both a cultural and an historical gem. Often conquered, but rarely damaged, its beauty has been mainly left intact - which gives anyone who visits, a unique experience.
Tolédo sits on a mountaintop and is made up of 350 streets and alleys - all crammed into a very small area. Full of old buildings, ancient mosques and churches, convents and monasteries, many of which are now used as museums to showcase the city’s past. The Medina (old city) is what all travellers talk about when they visit Tolédo - impossible to think of anything else. A “new” city sits far below - merely a suburb to the “real” place. Travel experts have said that if you have only one day to spend in Spain - go to Tolédo....they just may be right!
On our first afternoon here we became acquainted with our local streets and our new “digs,” which are right in the heart of the old town. One of 6 or 7 apartments in a very old building - in what was the Jewish area - we’re on the ground floor with direct access to a charming open courtyard/patio.....that’s the good news!
We did know upon booking that the apartment was a small place - it is - but we were unaware of its unusual quirks. Our bed has a full bunk above it - cozy - and probably great if we had kids in tow....but for us, a bit claustrophobic.
We’ve realized over the first few days here that it’s more suited to overnight accommodation (all other guests seem to leave after one night), supplies are limited and although towels, linens etc are clean, they’re obviously well used. With guests coming and going, there’s always a lot of sheets and towels hung out to dry in that charming patio!
The apartment is also very chilly - but to be fair, there’s a good heater - in the kitchen! The kitchen has a only a small, 2 burner stove-top.....but it does have a full size washing machine that takes up most of the space! But no matter - what a location ...and what a beautiful city....well worth the feeling that for this week, we’re “camping!”
The first evening, unsure of how to get back through the warren of tiny streets to our apartment, we didn’t venture very far - just for a drink outside at a local café....as it was only about a 5 minute walk away, we didn’t get lost!
The next morning we were pleasantly surprised to find that the little corner shop that had been closed when we arrived (Siesta time?!) was open for business....great news as it’s less than 20 steps away - and although small, it carries a lot of items - very important as there’s no room for supermarkets within the old town! As I bought a few breakfast items, I quickly made friends with the owner - Frederick - who told me all about his 3 children and his “beautiful wife.”
What was also surprising was that as I stepped out of the door leading from the courtyard to the street - a large tour group was just passing by.....everyone was raising their cameras and making “ooohhhing” sounds as they entered the street.....they obviously saw how old and lovely it is....and we “live” here!
For most of this first day we walked around the Medina (old town), getting lost, beginning to think something looked familiar - and getting lost again. With all of the 350 streets in this area - it’s a challenge!
In the early evening, back in the Medina, we found a small shopping precinct, with a couple of churches, a park and quite a few cafés and restaurants - siesta was over and everyone was out and about. We bought some delicious marzipan - a local speciality - from a small Panaderia/Pasteleria to enjoy on the way home - which we found without too many mistakes!
Being in Tolédo feels like living in a museum - it’s very easy to get transported into another era....so for a while the next day we travelled through time to that murky period sandwiched between the Romans and the Moors. The Visigoths held power in Western Europe from the 5th to the 7th century....knowing little about them we visited a museum showcasing their culture. The entrance fee - like many places here is a nominal amount - in this case €2.... but on Saturdays & Sundays many museums are free - so do a little research if visiting.
The building is Mudejar in style with soaring arches - in more lavish contrast is the chapel which was modified during the 16th century. With no English info boards or audio guides we could only get a little knowledge and an overall impression of what we were seeing in this “time capsule” of a people and their culture. With the exception of the ornate chapel, the building is attractive in its starkness, although there’s some lovely artwork.
With some pieces predating to the Roman period - including a collection of beautiful mural paintings in almost perfect condition, we also saw manuscripts from the 13th century. Crowns and jewelry, plus assorted pottery from the 5-6th century were there....and an exquisite piece of marble from a tombstone of a 50 year old man that’s dated 562 B.C. This whole collection, in what is now the Inglésia de San Román, is certainly worth a visit.
Afterwards we went in search of “The Moor’s ”Workshop” - which sounded interesting, but we never did find it....the alleys and tiny streets beat us on this one! We ate some marzipan, checked out the busy streets by the cathedral and decided to leave it for another day.....continuing on to the Santa Cruz museum, which was definitely the highlight of our day.
Entrance is through an ornate portico, into what was a hospital during the 16th century. The ground floor is huge - laid out in the shape of a cross. Fortunately this time all of the exhibits had detailed and interesting Information boards. The pieces were also placed in historical context - which was great for us.....at this time we would have loved to have had Marjie, our wonderful family historian, with us to give her more in-depth knowledge). At the far end is an El Greco masterpiece depicting the Immaculate Conception. Needless to say we spent quite a bit of time gaping at this + a couple more of his paintings, and some others from his workshop.
A few of our other favourite pieces were:- a collection of 12 panels dating from the 1400s, an alabaster statue of Mary holding the body of Jesus (from the 10th century), and a couple of large and beautiful Brussel tapestries from the early 1500s. Worth a mention is a desk and an armoire - both with inlaid details (16th century) and another desk from the 17th century that was full of small, painted glass panels.
On the first floor is a cloister and a ceramics collection, but the museum was closing - we were the last ones to leave....so that was something we unfortunately didn’t get to see.
We could easily have ended our day here....it was already packed with culture.....and we should have done just that....but with only an hour left until it also closed, we “soldiered” on to the Alcázar - and the War Museum.
Sitting on the highest part of Tolédo, this stone fortification was used as a Roman Palace in the 3rd century and later served as a fortress for the Visigoths and the Moors. In the mid 16th century it was restored by Charles I and his son, Philip II of Spain. Destroyed in 1710, 1810 and then again after a fire in 1887, it was rebuilt using the original blueprint. Captured by the military in 1936 and bombed....it’s now “the place” for anyone who is interested in the history of war.
Spread over a number of floors, some of the older parts, including a Roman cistern,
have been excavated - they can be seen from the escalator and galleries above.
The numerous exhibitions include tools and weapons from The Bronze Age, plus artifacts from Roman, Visigoth, Muslim and Christian times. Tolédo’s manufacture of swords and chain mail is also explained in detail.
By the time we got to more modern times (the museum covers right up to the War in Afghanistan), we’d had enough.....although we did take a morbid interest in an old car that had bullet holes.....the leader of the Conservative Party of Spain was assassinated while travelling in it in 1921.
After a brief look at the (much better) scenery from the roof, we’d truly had enough....time to to go “home” for a while, sit on our patio (with the laundry), have a beer and eat some amazingly good chips....did I mention that the local potato chips are outstanding?!
Think we’ll be loving Tolédo!