Exploring more of Murcia, Spain

The regional capital of Murcia, although relatively unknown internationally, is full of history, public spaces and is populated by people who seem very happy to be there. The food tastes wonderful - it's close to the sea so there's plenty of fish and seafood - but it's the fruits and vegetables that are outstanding. Many generations of practical knowledge plus up to date technology ensures this region's place as the top producer in Spain, producing 20% of Spain's fruit and vegetables. One day we saw some farmers showing solidarity and joining in with other European farmers who were holding protests in other countries. Trucks and agricultural vehicles blocked the streets one afternoon, causing a bit of traffic chaos…but that was mostly due to the few goats they'd brought along who were let loose to roam the streets. Public support seemed to be with them as police helped drivers through and around the mess. The drivers were patient - as were the police. Many watching the convoy applauded it.

At the time of the protest, we were close to Veronica's market which is an ideal place to buy and appreciate all the work that goes into farming. The current market was built between 1914-1917, but there's been a market there since the 15th century. This 2 story building, open every day except Sunday, is filled with people who come to find, haggle and buy the best of products. Like many of "modernized" markets there's places to eat and sometimes cooking classes - but this market is certainly not trendy. It's a place to buy the freshest cheese, meat and fish plus fruit and vegetables. The scent of ground coffee fills the air, together with that of freshly baked bread. The options to eat are just a couple of little stalls, turned into makeshift canteens, selling food that's bought and prepared on sight. Like everywhere else in Murcia, the regional specialty of Pastel de Carne (meat pie) is sold at the market - it's said to be the best in the city. A puff pastry crust is filled with spiced meat and traditionally is made from the original recipe, dating back to 1695. At that time rules were made concerning the flour used and the exact measurements of the pie…which should be small enough to be hand-held. These pies can be found everywhere and they're definitely not all made following the rules - but as for taste, Trevor did his best to sample a wide range of them, so he may have more of an insight on that than me!
Veronica's market is mostly full of locals, although a few inquisitive tourists find their way inside. The merchants and locals are friendly and welcoming, but it's very loud and boisterous as the buying, selling, tasting and swapping of news fills the air. It can be somewhat intimidating - but if you're in Murcia, give it a try….it's a great experience and you'll be rewarded with some tasty food! On the right side of the market is a section of an old wall and 2 towers which were part of Veronica's Church, giving both the area and the market its name. This old wall however goes much further back, dating somewhere between the 11th and 13th century. Some of Murcia's oldest churches were constructed by re-using the remains from the old city wall. One of the towers is almost fully intact and is 1 of the only 2 remaining today of the 95 originals.

We came to love our local neighbourhood of El Carmen - formerly an industrial area, but now just a lovely and friendly place in the city with a population of 23,000. It has a lively atmosphere, great local shops, which are mostly small and individually owned, but there's also a few small supermarkets. Cafés and restaurants are plentiful and most things are cheaper this side of the river. Very little English is spoken here, but everyone we met was helpful, friendly and welcoming. In one shop I held a 3 way conversation with 2 of their staff - we laughed as we communicated in my poor Spanish and limited French and their limited English and fluent French.

Exploring the city during our time in Murcia we were able to see many interesting historical places and areas…so in no particular order - here goes…
......The Real Casino de Murcia, built in 1847 is situated not far from the cathedral. In 1983 it was named a National Historic building. Although casino brings to mind gambling, it can also mean club in Spanish, which is the case here. Renovated in 2006-2009, the rooms were restored to their original decor. Although still a private club, the ground floor is open to the public - and it's both ornate and quite luxurious. After entering through the main door and paying the entrance fee in the small vestibule, a stained glass door gives access into the Arabic Court. Lined with 35,000 gold leaf sheets this room's high ceiling has a dome made of stained glass.
The central gallery, which leads off the Arabic Court, is also filled with light from the glass and marble dome. This dome forms a roof over what was originally a street joining separate buildings. The first room - Bibliotecca Inglesa (English Library) was our particular favourite. No Arabic traces here - the room was built by a British company. Another glass ceiling dome provides natural light for reading. Around the room there's 25 individual "study" areas. In the large open space of the room, there's a couple of large reading tables with brass rails for holding newspapers. The upper gallery has cabinets full of books - 20,000 of them - some dating back to the 17th century. The floor is inlaid with 2 different coloured woods in a geometric pattern. Burgundy leather sofas and club desk chairs complement the "British men's club" look. The library has windows looking out onto the "street" outside. We couldn't see all of the rooms on the ground floor and none on the second as they're only open to members of what is still a private club. Other rooms of mention are a couple of luxurious sitting rooms and a Ladies Room where the silk fabrics, silver toilet sets and mirrors are all originals. There's also a strange but fascinating painting on the ceiling of a winged goddess whose eyes follow you around the room!
The Salón de Baile (The Ballroom) is the most lavish room. Built in 1870, the ceiling is one large canvas of landscapes, with 5 huge gold and brass Baccarat crystal chandeliers hanging from it. Silk curtains hang from the walls and silk banquettes give places to sit around the edge of the ballroom. The inlaid wooden dance floor is the only floor space that's original. The ballroom has an ante-room plus there's a lovely Tea Room and Dining Room close by which is open to the public. At the end of the glassed in street are a couple of airy patios and classical sculptures - a couple of which are from the Vatican.

The Salzillo Museum had the most impact on us. Even if not religious it cannot fail to leave an impression on anyone who visits. It's one of the most important museums in Spain and highly valued be the city. Franciso Salzillo ( 1707-1783) was born from a Murcian mother and a father from Naples, who was also a sculptor. Spending most his life in Murcia, Salzillo dedicated his life to sculpting religious statues and is considered one of the most important of the Baroque sculptors. His work combines the colours of Italian realism with the religious passion of Spain during this era. His statues are incredibly life-like and for the most part huge. They're displayed in the former home of the Holy Brotherhood of Our Father Jesus of Nazareth, founded in 1600….it's an atmospheric and perfect place to display them. Attached is a more modern building that has a collection of other religious statues. The most extensive one being a collection of Neopolitan scenes - the life-long project of the García de Castro brothers. Covering artwork from 1725-1790, they eventually sold it to the university of Murcia, where it's now on permanent display.
Murcia is proud of their native son and these huge statues are paraded through the streets during the famous Easter processions in Spain. Some huge pieces include the Arrest and Kiss of Judas and the Flagellation of Jesus. The largest one is the last supper which has to be seen to be appreciated - not only in the size, but like all Salzillo's work, the incredible realism of the statues.
Althiugh there are other places we visited, one that we particularly loved was the Santa Clara La Real Convent. Housed in part of the structure of a 13th century Moorish Palace, this 15th century Cloister and Church together with another 18th century Church it is still a convent, so access is limited to certain areas. Completely different to the staggering work of Salzillo and the luxurious and privileged private club of The Real Casino, it was also one of our favourites. Both Peaceful and serene it has a collection of religious art and Andalusian archaeology. Some traces of Moorish arches and architecture can be seen, including some tile work and pottery. One long marbled floored room contains most of the religious artifacts. There's a calm environment both inside and outside - and although the cloisters can only be be viewed through arched openings and glass walled panels, it's lovely. Still used by the nuns in the convent, it's closed to the public.

During our time in Murcia we also saw the Cathedral and The Bishops Palace. The Bishop's Palace is a lovely building, entrance is free, but there's limited access - it remains primarily a residence and administrative building. The attractive courtyard is full of arches - Italian & Roman architecture come to mind. The stone work is beautiful, inside and out, and it really does have the feel of a palace, with its grand staircase and stained glass windows. A beautiful domed ceiling has decorative ironwork of cherubs and crests plus a huge iron chandelier hangs from its centre. The square outside its entrance - Plaza del Plaza del Cardinal Belluga - is named after the man, who as a Cardinal in Rome, was such a great benefactor to this city.

The cathedral is lovely and is often quoted as "the pride of Murcia." Unfortunately, due to repairs when we were there, we didn't get to see the main façade and entrance - which from photos is exceptional - and is regarded as a "jewel of Baroque beauty." The tower is second only to the one in Seville and it dominates the skyline of this city. The inside is mostly gothic, with one chapel's dome featuring ornate plasterwork. The organ in the sacristy, with its 4,000 pipes and 4 keyboards, is one of the most important organs in the world. The museum and chapels have Italian paintings and Salzillo statues.

Murcia's cathedral attracts a lot of tourists to the city - coach loads of them - and it's certainly exceptional and well worth seeing, as is the nearby Bishop's palace. Unfortunately for many visitors that's about all they get to see. What we discovered in Murcia was so much more…it's not only full of history, but culture, lovely plazas, large parks, green space plus numerous pedestrian bridges. These bridges provide lots of options for crossing the river into the city - many are modern and totally pedestrianized, while others are 1 way only for traffic ….priority is always given to pedestrians. The city is also full of bike and scooter lanes….people matter here.

There's a great university in Murcia, and the district surrounding it is - unsurprising - lively and busy, but also has lovely buildings, squares and open spaces. We were fortunate enough to spend over a week in the city and found it full of friendly people. The climate is very mild during the winter rarely dipping below 17C during the day or 7 at night. Temperatures are hotter in the low 30s from June to mid September. It receives little rain, but gets lots of sunshine year round. Expenses are lower than many more well known places in Spain for both residents, students and visitors. The ocean and beaches are close by and are favoured by many expats.

We actually stumbled upon Murcia while dong research for this year's travel as it fit into our itinerary - a lucky find as it's become a favourite….and there is of course that great chocolate!

Next stop on our travels is Granada.