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ARRIVED IN CÓRDOBA
After an emotional week in Yorkshire we arrived back at Málaga airport to continue our travels. We found the train station - it’s located just beyond the bus area, outside the main Arrivals exit. Tickets to various destinations within the city can be bought from automatic kiosks. For under €2 each we were at Malaga’s main train station - Maria Zambrano - in just a few minutes....it’s only 2 or 3 stops, so watch out for it!
Exiting, we found ourselves in a shopping mall that could be anywhere in the world. The location for train tickets is located just around the corner, behind shiny glass doors. Our rudimentary Spanish “clued us in” that we had to take a number ****tourist tip...usually there’s one set of numbers for trains that day, another set for other days*** (we’ve made that mistake before!). Along with our tickets to Córdoba, we were able to buy a senior’s pass which reduces prices by 25% on all trains in Spain - worthwhile if making more than one trip. All that’s needed is a passport for proof of age + €6....the pass is good for one year****
With time to spare we left the shopping centre, quickly found a spot at an outside café, and watched the world around us while enjoying some much appreciated warm sunshine.
Our journey to Córdoba took just over an hour - first travelling up and through mountains - until reaching a plateau, where we entered a vast agricultural area that took us all the way to our destination. Less than 10 mins by taxi and we arrived at our apartment for the week, where we met our “host.” The apartment is located in a quiet neighbourhood with an attractive park at the end of the street..... .some ancient remains of the outer city wall can be seen there. The old city - and most of the major sights - are within an easy 15-20 minute walk. We’re on the 3rd (top floor) of a small apartment building (12 units) - which unfortunately has very poor soundproofing.....a lot of noise travels between the walls and floors. So far we have heard quite a bit of singing and loud talking, TVs playing, a child crying (a lot) in the bedroom next to ours and a man snoring - her tired father perhaps? As we were both recovering from a stomach bug the first couple of days, it did prove to be a bit irritating!
After delaying our first walk around Córdoba, we finally set out on Sunday afternoon to get a feel for the place. We began our wanderings at Plaza de las Tendillas - a main meeting spot in this city. Situated in what used to be the Roman Forum the name of this Plaza means “the square of small shops”..... on this day there was a festival celebrating all things Japanese. A walk about the surrounding streets assured us that it was indeed a place of small shops plus cafés, bars and restaurants. A lovely white hotel - The Palacio Colomera - fills one whole side of the square. A large clock atop another building chimes the hour with the sound of guitar cords - and dominating the centre of the square is an equestrian statue.
We made our way downwards, through narrow, winding streets, to the river. Along the way, we passed many gated courtyards - some private and others containing attractive cafés, restaurants and hotels. We crossed over the Guadalquivir river via the Roman Bridge, taking our time to look back at the Mezquita-Cathedral, and the arched gate in front of it. Looking forward we had our first sighting of the Calahorra Tower - a Moorish castle which controlled the city at its Southern entry. This other side of the river seems somewhat neglected, but only a short stroll took us to another bridge - Puente de Miraflores and back into the old town.
My favourite “mapster man” (Trevor), guided us home along a different route that had just as many, if not more, twists and turns. Along the way we stopped and admired the work of a local artist, stuck our noses into a small tea room and enjoyed a drink in a small courtyard with a fountain - and where we were surrounded by orange trees.
We kicked off the week with one of our favourites a “free” walking tour - meeting up with the tour guide at - where else? ....Plaza de las Tendillas - right by the “horse” fountain. After grabbing a coffee and baguette along the way, we were ready to join a large group - all of us excited to learn more about Córdoba. For over 2 hours we were led by a guide, who actually wasn’t Spanish, but having majored in tourism, she certainly knew her history! We followed her down through the old city, with frequent stops along the way to learn anecdotes, facts and urban legends about her adopted home of Córdoba.
So in no particular order...a few things we saw and learned along the way:-
There are 14 main churches in Córdoba, due to the city originally having 14 districts.
San Rafael is the patron saint of Córdoba because it is believed that he protected the city from damage during the massive earthquake in 1755.....and he also protected the local population from the plague.
His statue on the top of the cathedral is the highest point in the city.
In 1486 Christopher Columbus came to Córdoba to ask King Ferdinand & Queen Isabella for money for his voyage in 1492.
Before the Mosque became a Christian Cathedral in 1236 it was used by a population of 700,000 Muslims.
The site of the Mesquita was originally a Roman temple of worship.
The original Roman Bridge over the River was wooden and built in the first century B.C. It was the southernmost entryway to the city. The current bridge was built in the 16th century.
The popular and traditional dish of ox-tail was created when the tails of bulls (killed in the bull ring) were given to the poor.
50/50 - 50% strong, sweet red wine & 50% dry white wine was created here as a summer drink.
Sephardic Jews originated from the Iberian peninsular.
Maimonides - the Jewish philosopher and doctor was born in 1135 in Cordoba....it is said that if you touch the feet of his statue here, you will return....we touched his feet!
After the tour ended, and armed with a lot more knowledge, we continued to wander around this lovely and fascinating city...finally making our way home after a 13km day....we slept well - the noise in the apartment didn’t bother us at all!
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