Ciao Salerno.....and Italy

We fully intended that the day following our trip to Naples would be low-key, which it was - due to a huge rain and wind storm that came through the area. Together with a series of thunderstorms, it kept us indoors more than we’d planned! Although tired after the previous days walking we really wanted to go out and see the display of Christmas lights that had been turned on the night before.....something which Salerno is both proud of, and famous for....but that was to happen the following night - our last one in town. After getting soaked while out buying a few supplies, we settled in for the rest of the day - correction...we did get wet again when we dodged out to get some delicious pastries to cheer us up!
Our last day dawned bright and sunny and although the sea was still turbulent, the temperatures nudged into the low 20s....not bad at all for mid-November! Our first job was to get bus-tickets for the next day’s journey to the airport....so we walked along the Promenade Trieste which took us most of the way there and, as always, provided some interesting and ever-changing views of the ocean and mountains. For the first time we walked right to its eastern end - where ocean-side restaurants were closed for the season, but tennis was still being played on “courts with a view!”
By early afternoon, bus-tickets were bought and suitcases were (mostly) packed, it was finally time to see the most visited place in Salerno - and something we hadn’t yet got around to seeing - The Cathedral.
Set in the historic medieval centre of the city it rises above the surrounding buildings, which in themselves are lovely.....even faded and aged, they give a warm and cozy feeling to the area. Dedicated to St.Matthew, experts consider Salerno Cathedral to be the most beautiful medieval church In Italy. Built by the Normans in 1076, it was officially consecrated in 1084 by Pope Gregory VII. The interior was remodelled in the Baroque style in 1638, with a restoration taking place in the 1930s. It received some damage during the Allied Landing in 1943 and again in an earthquake in 1980.
Although there’s a side entrance, with a set of steep steps, we went through the main entrance, the Porta dei Leoni, which quite fittingly is “guarded” on either side by marble lions. After stepping through a set of huge 11th century bronze doors that originated in Constantinople, we entered a lovely courtyard that’s surrounded by painted Arab-style arches. These arches are supported by columns that the Normans removed from the ruins of Roman villas in the surrounding area. A large, attractive bell-tower dating from the middle of the 12th century continues the Arabic-Norman style with its small arcades and vertically divided (mullioned) windows. Sarcophagi line one side of the courtyard, on the walls above them traces of ancient frescos can still be seen.
The church inside is largely Baroque, with very little of the original church remaining. Traces of the older church can be found on the choir floor and the 2 raised pulpits in front of the choir stalls. In addition there are some very detailed mosaics dating from the 13th century - and they’re absolutely stunning!
The Cathedral has 3 aisles, with one of the chapels splendidly depicting the history of the crusades - all in vivid colour and more mosaics. This was the very spot where the crusaders came to have their weapons receive a blessing. The tomb of the 11th century Pope Gregory VII stands in front of the alter. Other interesting artwork in this Cathedral include a 14th century statue of the Madonna with Child and a few remaining traces of frescoes....one in particular from the 14th century has only recently been discovered - we squeezed into a small space between the walls so we could see it!
Entrance to Salerno Cathedral is free, but when visiting the crypt there’s a notice suggesting a donation. On that day we were the only ones in the church, so it really was on the honour system....but given what we’d already seen, we were more than happy to contribute. After descending the stairs and turning a corner to get our first sight of the crypt, we would have gladly paid more.....it’s a wow - completely “over the top” - but still a wow!
Restored during the early 1600s, this crypt which is believed to house the remains of the Apostle Matthew, has no single area without colour and/or texture. The vaulted hall has marble floors, walls and pillars - all are inlaid with even more marble that was added during the 1700s. The ceilings are a riot of colour, with frescoes depicting scenes from Salerno’s history and episodes from the Gospel of Matthew. Situated directly under the main alter, the crypt has its own double-sided altar which is divided by a large statue of the Saint. This configuration allows 2 masses to be celebrated simultaneously as the statue is also two-sided.
Leaving through the courtyard, we finally saw some other visitors. We’d noticed this group of young women earlier in the day when they’d been visiting Minerva Gardens, whose entrance gates can be seen from our balcony. We all happily took photos of each other....we also made sure to tell them not to miss the crypt!
Our last night in Salerno was an experience that was shared by many, when we joined the throng of locals and people from surrounding areas to view the annual “Luci d’Artista.” For over 20 years this unique Festival of Lights has taken place in Salerno, giving some of the best and most famous light artists an opportunity to install a themed light show. We were fortunate to be there to see “Marine Life” - which this year runs from November 15-January 6. The colourful and imaginative lights fill the town - from the Lungomare Trieste waterfront, to the main shopping street of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the market area to the Cathedral and the historic old town, the piazzas, the parks, and even the Ferris wheel, which is brought in especially for this time period.....the lights are everywhere!
We started at a park close to the bottom of the elevator, which is a perfect spot for families with children - its walkways wind through a display of illuminated animals. We saw everything from elephants to kangaroos - admittedly not marine life, but the children didn’t seem to care and neither did anyone else! It was a great beginning to the night - the place was full of extended family groups who were enjoying what could have been “tacky” - but surprisingly was not.
Salerno is renowned locally for its lively nightlife - known as “movida,” which is slang for social-gathering. Many of the thousands of people who visit for these lights stay on late into the night, enjoying the atmosphere of the historic old town, restaurants and cafés. Shops stay open late, so there’s lots of places to browse - either at internationally known chains or at individual boutiques which sell locally made goods...something that’s not always easy to find! Apparently it’s not unusual to see traffic jams at 2.00 a.m.....although we’ve never stayed up late enough to confirm if that’s true!
Throughout the evening we saw an amazing array of lights which included shells, fish and other creatures of the sea. There where streets full of angels, a shopping precinct full of gold and silver chandeliers and a piazza in the old town where a ceiling of lights formed the sky - and an adjacent building was a backdrop for Neptune. Even the area around our small local food store was surrounded by large, colourful floral banners. A small piazza was dramatically changed from its daytime appearance when a fountain and large tree there became illuminated. This magical area was tucked away, close to an arch in the historic centre.....the tree was covered in white lights and its “branches” which were lit with similar lights, appeared to stretch out and touch the surrounding balconies.
Throughout our last evening we walked the town that we’d come to love. Salerno has a charming, lived-in feel - and we found it a refreshing contrast to the more touristy destinations on the Amalfi Coast. The tatty - but clean - historic centre is charming, the medieval buildings fascinating and the large waterfront promenade has a gorgeous stretch of water and every-changing mountain views. It’s full of cafés, restaurants, good pizza places - and pastry stores whose creations are among the best we’ve ever tasted.
We finally ended our last night in Italy with one last stop. From a small shop, again in the historic centre, we each chose a single piece of expensive - but delicious - hand-made chocolate....and a pastry to take home and share!
We’ll miss you Salerno - but tomorrow we go to Yorkshire, where we can console ourselves with fish & chips!