Spending time in Salerno

Our jaunt along the Amalfi Coast was wonderful, but left us slightly concerned that with time wizzing by, there was still more left for us to see and do in Salerno. During
our wanderings around town we’d kept our eyes open for the outside market, but had never really searched for it. Markets are always pretty high on my particular list, so we decided that this was the day, and off we went!
Spreading along both sides of two streets, the market was easily found and proved to be enjoyable and lots of fun. One area is made up of stalls selling cheap clothes, socks and a few small household items with the larger area selling food - predominately fruits and vegetables. There’s also one or two stalls that had a lovely selection of flowers....in mid-November the daytime temperatures are still around 20C, so there’s plenty of colourful blooms to choose from. With vendors verbally touting their wares, we perused all the stalls before buying. The atmosphere was great, there was no hassle to buy - and I was always called “Bella!” We were “allowed” to pick out our own fruit and vegetables - which is not always the case at European markets. At one stall, after selecting a peach, the vendor gave it to me...I just wanted one and he didn’t seem think it was worth taking the money for it. All the produce was fresh and cheap and the friendly atmosphere really added to our enjoyment....we were, quite obviously, the only tourists there - and seemed to be a novelty.
Making our way back home via an alternate route we spied some steps leading down into a gritty, old courtyard, that also had a dried up old fountain. A couple of kitchen chairs sat behind the fountain under an open sided, but roofed area. We were speculating - is it a relaxing spot used by the people who live there and share the courtyard, perhaps?
In another part of town we spotted some old arches, remnants of a 9th century aqueduct that was built to supply the monastery of St. Benedict. In the past this ancient place was often referred to as “Bridges of the Devil” due to the superstitious belief that it was built in a single night by a magician - with the help of demons!
Another place we’d been wanting to see in Salerno was “Minerva Gardens.” Part of the view from our apartment includes this unique spot....we actually discovered that from the upper terraces of the gardens we were able to “spy” our balcony and our laundry, that was hanging out to dry! The attractive and inviting entrance gates to the gardens are directly across from the door to our apartment building - it was time to go in!
Between the 11th and 12th centuries, Salerno opened the earliest medical school in Europe. Giardino Della Minerva (Minerva Gardens), located in the ancient centre of the old town, was used for the school’s educational purposes. It’s now considered to be the foundation of our understanding of what a botanical garden means. Situated close to the course of the river Fusandola, a complex system of water distribution was installed - with tanks, channels and fountains (1 for each terrace).....this system is still used today.
Historically one of the most important parts of Salerno, this land and garden belonged to only one family - Silvatico - from the 12th century until the end of WWII when it was donated to the Asylum for Beggars. It now belongs to the township, who maintain it through donations, a small on-site shop and café, plus entrance fees - which at €3 is a bargain....it’s worth so much more!
We passed through the entrance, a couple of small indoor exhibitions and the shop before stepping out onto the first terrace - which is breathtaking! Four terraces stretch upwards - the different levels are reached by a long outdoor staircase which is built on top of the ancient walls of the city. A vine-covered, wooden pergola covers the stairs, with supporting pillars and arches that frame some outstanding views of the sea, the old town and surrounding hills.
We spent a large part of the late afternoon ambling around the terraces, flowerbeds, plants and herbs - all contained within sunken pots and designated areas classifying their medicinal properties. The garden has more than 200 plant species - predominantly ones that were used during the Middle Ages for medicinal proposes, some of which are very rare. Although a large part of the plants are now “seeding,” we still found it interesting and informative in addition to being beautiful...plus the lemon trees were still full of fruit! On the top terrace we had a peek inside what I called “the potting shed”....with its old pipes and troughs it’s actually an entrance and a source for the water that nurtures these gardens.
Before leaving we took another look at the shop and also a display of painted medieval tiles - found during restoration work in an old Palazzo close by. During our visit, we shared this garden with only one other person - a fact we discussed later during our sunset walk along the promenade....once again realizing how much Salerno is the hidden-gem of this area.
Another topic under discussion during our evening walk was Naples....To go or not to go? - that was the question! We’d been debating a visit to Naples during the whole time that we were in Salerno. Some people love it, while others hate it - is all we’ve heard or read. During the earlier part of the week we’d reserved 2 spots in one of “the free” walking tours of Naples, but it was cancelled due to lack of participants. With time in this area running out we re-booked it for another day, but were still debating whether to go - when fate stepped in - we met someone who loves Naples.
Making our way home through the old town we happened to go into the small shop of a ceramic artist, who had some lovely and very detailed pieces.....one of which he was working on. After exchanging the usual pleasantries, we watched him working for a few more minutes while the conversation continued and we all introduced ourselves. This gregarious artist and shopkeeper, Donatello, told us that he’s always been an enthusiastic traveller - even reminiscing about his time in Western Canada as an agricultural worker. When he enquired as to where we’d been locally, he started to talk about Naples - especially after learning that we had yet to make a decision about visiting the city. At this point Donatello, who had also once been a tour-guide, was adamant that we shouldn’t miss the opportunity - so much so that he spent the next half hour writing out an itinerary for us. With names and descriptions of over half a dozen major points of interest plus street names, etc, he claimed we wouldn’t need the walking tour!
Well he convinced us! We cancelled the guided tour and set the alarm clock in order to get an early start the next day. For better or worse....we were off to Naples!