ARRIVED IN ROME

The journey to Rome was smooth....from the airport hotel shuttle in Madrid, to our arrival at the apartment in Rome, it could not have been better. At the AlItalia check-in, there was no one waiting - and the same when we reached security. We left and arrived on time and received free refreshments on the plane - a real rarity these days...and.... our bags were waiting for us when we reached the carousel. Through our Airbnb host, we’d arranged pick up at the airport in Rome - and we walked straight out and into the waiting car...if only all journeys could go this smoothly!
Our new “home” is completely different from the one we left in Tolédo....it’s in an urban area, on the 4th floor of an apartment building....and it’s bright, light and airy! We spent our first few hours walking the neighbourhood before heading to a local restaurant where we had our first “real” Italian pizza - very tasty!
The next day we stocked up on supplies and went further afield to Plaza San Giovani, where we got a taste of the traffic, shops, noise - and, of course, the history of Rome. As we walked to and from our apartment along the Via Appia Nuova, we passed many shops selling shoes, bags and clothing plus quite a few kiosks selling an assortment of lovely flowers.
After about 30 mins, we reached Porta San Giovanni - a Gate in the Aurelian Walls, which were built around 270-275 A.D. as a defence against barbarians and invaders. A large bronze statue of St. Francis of Assisi can be seen shortly after passing through the gate. Over 21 feet tall, it was made in 1925 to celebrate the 700th anniversary of his death. The entrance to a park is just behind the statue and it’s a popular place for families to get together.....we saw a group of older gentlemen, gathered beneath a tree - they were playing a card game of some kind.
Directly across from the statue of St. Francis is the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran - not only is it the oldest of the 4 major papal churches, but it’s the oldest in the western world, built in the 4th century. This beautiful Baroque church has a facade featuring Jesus, St. John the Baptist and the 12 apostles.
The square behind the church has the tallest obelisk in the world. Originally from Egypt it was brought by way of the Nile in the early 4th century.
Almost beside the basilica is the Scala Santa, which was recently reopened to the public. The staircase has 28 marble steps, which for the last 300 years have been covered with wood to protect them.....but for a limited time they are now accessible without their wooden covering. According to the Christian religion, these are the steps that Jesus ascended, in Pontius Pilate’s Palace, when he was condemned to death in Jerusalem....they were brought to Rome in 326. Owned by the Vatican, they are free to use, but can only be climbed in silence and on one’s knees - which we did observe some people doing.
On the way home, we ate what will probably be our first of many gelatos in this city.....dark chocolate....yum!
The Colosseum is one of the most photographed places in Rome....and rightly so....it’s an amazing sight! We caught our first glimpse when it filled the horizon, at the bottom of a narrow street......as we got closer, it just got bigger....and the area surrounding it got busier and the street sellers more annoying! We joined the line, ignored the street sellers (some swore at us for that), and we were in....no money changed hands.....entrance is free! With no pre-arranged tour, we paid just a few euros for an audio guide and got started!
Although busy, the crowds were manageable, and most people were willing to wait their turn, enjoy their spots in the best viewing areas and then move on to let others also take a look. Before entering the open area there’s an interesting museum, that’s not overly large, displaying ancient statues, mosaics and descriptions of the games. Information boards also explain the seating and cultural aspects of the Colosseum, plus its long history.
We walked up the stairs and through the arches into the vast open space that seated somewhere in the region of 50 to 70 thousand people (estimates vary). Commissioned in 72 A.D. by the Emperor Vespasian, it was finished by his son, Titus. Originally named the Flavian Amphitheatre, it was only during medieval times that it became known as the Colosseum, after the giant Colloso di Norone (large statue of Nero) was found there.
Not all of the 80 entrance arches are still around today - but many of them are. The arena itself originally had a wooden floor and excavations underneath it are still ongoing. The seating had 3 levels where people sat according to their rank - senior officials in the lowest tier, with wealthy citizens in the second and the regular folk (plebs) on the third. The very top was the only place where women were allowed to sit (unless they were Vestal Virgins!). The best seats were reserved for senators, important special guests and - of course - emperors, who all sat on a broad terrace at the front.
The emperors kept themselves and the masses happy.....Titus ordered that the inaugural games would last for 100 days and nights - about 5,000 animals were slaughtered during that time. Trajan later outdid him with games lasting 117 days! Food and water was served at the games - but only 1 glass of wine....there seems to be a lot more wine drunk in Rome nowadays.....and drinking water still flows freely in public areas throughout the city.
We gradually made our way around the upper area, before going down to ground level, where we were able to see the cross which was erected to honour Christians who were slaughtered there.
Although a few modifications were made over the first 100 years, by 217 the Colosseum was badly damaged by fire after being struck by lightening. Repairs took place and records show that gladiator events were held there until 435. In Medieval times a chapel was added, the arena was a cemetery and under the seating there was housing and workshops. Dueinf the 16th century, there was even talk of turning it into a wool factory!
A few more facts to know about this amazing structure - at 48 metres high, it’s the largest amphitheatre ever built, covering an area of 6 acres. There are 36 trap doors - a must for putting on spectacles using special affects. It survived 2 earthquakes in 847 & 1231. It took only 10 years to build - an incredible feat that was only made possible by the 60,000 slaves who worked on it. Finally it was a gift from the Flavian Emperors - Vespasian, Titus and Domitian to the Roman people....it’s certainly provided to be a lasting monument to their dynasty!
We left this huge place and were almost immediately at the Arco di Costantino, which is hard to miss as it’s located between the Colosseum and Palantine Hill. One of the best preserved monuments from Ancient Rome, it was built in 325 to commemorate the victory of Constantine over Maxentius in a civil war. This large arch is 21 metres high and 25 metres wide. Constructed with previously used materials, Constantine plundered the carvings from other monuments, added them to his own arch and then had his own face carved onto the bodies of Emperors Trajan, Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius...a revolutionary idea at that time!
We spent the remainder of the day walking around quite a few back streets, deciding to save some of the other “well known” sites for another day. Our route was an area that circled around the Colosseum - it was fascinating, and peaceful....not a “selfie-stick seller” or “tour-guide” in sight!
We passed 2 lovely little churches - both closed - and a monastery where we were able to see the ancient courtyard and pass under some ancient brick arches - whose name was unknown to us, but which were hauntingly lovely.
We did find one church that was open - San Clemente - free to enter, but sadly (for us) no photographs allowed. The apse has a perfectly preserved mosaic of Christ surrounded not by saints, but by curving tendrils that hide tiny men, women and animals - certainly a break from tradition. It’s believed that this is a copy from an earlier mosaic that was in the 4th century church that lies below the current one. The floors are also covered in lovely mosaics - all from the 12th century, as is the church. A side chapel to St. Catherine has Renaissance frescoes that were painted in the mid-15th century. After a quick look at the tranquil courtyard (still no photographs allowed), we hiked uphill and sat a café to enjoy drinks and a tasty mozzarella & tomato sandwich on focaccia bread, which was very good - pricey....
but it’s Rome - and we did have a view of the Colosseum!