TUESDAY 9 OCTOBER - A Very Special Treat

This was the day for our big treat of the trip and a visit to Zion Wildlife Gardens in Kamo, near Whangarei. Zion is the home to television's "Lion Man" Craig Busch and is a sanctuary to some of the world's rarest big cats - Barbary and white lions, Royal white and orange Bengall tigers, some very cute cubs, two Serval cats, a black leopard and a baboon. We took the tour of the park which was absolutely amazing - just to be able to see such wonderful creatures at close quarters, obviously with the wire mesh inbetween us, but still very close. Our guide for the tour was a young French guy who had only been at the park, and in NZ, for 3 weeks but was already very knowledgeable. He told us that he had seen the "Lion Man" programme on TV in France and immediately thought "I want to work there" so he emailed Zion and was told there was a place for him but only as a volunteer. But that was good enough for him to make the big decision to leave France, and his chosen career of ancient architecture, and head to NZ to spend time with the big cats. And having seen them, who could blame him!

WEDNESDAY 10 - FRIDAY 12 OCTOBER - Paperwork and Packing

Back to Auckland and Mags and Jon's place to prepare for our interview for a U.S. Visa. This will enable us to stay in the U.S. for up-to six months, and at least longer than the 90 days allowed on the visa waiver scheme. On-line forms, pulling together the required paperwork and paying for the visa at the post office - payment required even if you are not successful with your application - and we were ready for our visit to the American Consulate in town. All very official for entry into the building with all belongings put through the x-ray and left at the desk which made us think that the interview was going to be more like an interrogation! But we needn't have worried, thankfully we had filled out the correct forms, with the correct answers and supplied the necessary supporting paperwork. So, after the electronic taking of our fingerprints and a couple of "chatty" questions we were on our way again feeling pretty confident that the visas would be issued without any problem. (and they were!)

Back on the train to Puke and plenty of time to prepare for our farewell/thank you dinner for Mags and Jon and to pack for our FINAL departure from Auckland. During the afternoon, Neil was in contact with Dave Panting (of Auckland RAT fame and mentioned in earlier blogs) who told him that he and some of the other guys are riding to Napier and would we like to tag along with them for part of the way. This of course, it being Dave, will not be a "as the crow flies" journey, so having taken a look at the map we can see it will fit in with our plans for our next stop and agree a time and place for the morning.

SATURDAY 13 OCTOBER - Start of the Final Leg

We bid a fond farewell to our hosts for the past few weeks (on and off) and promise to meet up in the U.S. next year if all our plans work out. Mags and Jon have a family wedding to attend in America in May, so hopefully we should be in the same place at around the same time!

We meet Dave and the other guys and ride with them until Tirau, after an interesting route which, of course, includes one dirt road. The guys head towards Taupo and eventually Napier and our direction is Rotorua for our destination of Ohope Beach, just south Whakatane. Ohope is lovely, bathed in glorious sunshine with our cabin just a few paces from the beach.

SUNDAY 14 OCTOBER - East Cape

A big, big ride today of 330kms but excellent views all the way round the East Cape from Ohope to Gisborne. We had planned to stay in Hicks Bay but decided to continue to Gisborne as time allowed. We stop for a photo opportunity at Tolaga Bay, named by James Cook but known locally as Uawa, it is famous for its wharf. It is the largest in New Zealand and was built to accommodate visiting vessels.

Although the sun was shining for the majority of the journey, the wind was pretty strong and galeforce in a couple of places but we arrive safely in Gizzy.

MONDAY 15 OCTOBER - More Gravel!

A wonderful ride today with glorious scenery over the "Gentle Annie (Gisborne District)" from Gisborne to Frasertown - just north of Wairoa. Onto our destination for the night, a fisherman's cabin at the side of Lake Waikaremoana. The lake is in the Urewera National Park which is the third largest National Park in NZ and the largest remaining tract of native forest in the North Island. Now on our map, the road to the lake is shown as sealed but we soon find out that that aint the case for the whole of the road and in fact the majority is not - so more gravel! The camp does have a store and, although it is very well-stocked, if you do find that there is something that you don't have have it will just have to wait until tomorrow as the nearest town is way, way back up the gravel road and beyond. It all just adds to the "back to basics" feel, that and our wee cabin. Cosy is the word that comes to mind.

TUESDAY 16 OCTOBER - Amazing.....

......that the cabin is still in one piece and at the side of the lake and not in it!! An extremely wet and blustery night with thoughts that the cabin was about to loose its roof on a couple of occasions. But in the morning the sun is shining again and it's time to head off back into civilisation and our destination for today, Hastings. Tonight is going to be our last night of the NZ tour so we have decided to push the boat out and have a cabin with everything - ensuite, kitchen and TV and, as it is the Hawkes Bay, the weather is glorious.

WEDNESDAY 17 OCTOBER - "Four Seasons in One Day"

We might have set off in brilliant sunshine from Hastings but boy, by the time we got to Palmerston North, had we had everything thrown at us - horizontal rain, vertical rain, hailstones, galeforce winds and rockslides in the Manawatu Gorge. Were we glad to get to Palmy and enjoy a warm cup of tea and catch-up with Ed at ANZA? A quick visit to see Roy at Express Logistics to fill him in on the Chile trip and to thank him for his help in shipping the bike out and we were dry again and ready to set off on the very last part of the ride back to Wellington and home to Mick and Moira's.

Almost home, only 15kms to go, and we are greeted by another surprise and the final photo opportunity of the journey. Whilst on the Paekakariki Hill Road, a glider soars in complete silence above our heads. So we pull in at the viewing point and realise that there are three guys out from the local gliding club, all taking advantage of the perfect (for them) conditions. It's a weird sensation having something fly so close to you with just the noise of the air rushing over it's flexing wings. Somehow, just the perfect end to our NZ adventure!

So, we are back in Wellington now and, after the disappointment of our South American journey, we have had a fantastic time touring, only a part, of the country that we live in. We have seen spectacular scenery with sometimes major city or town , coastal and rural settings all in one day. The weather has, in the main, been on our side, apart from the very last day of course! But the consistent thing throughout the trip has been the people. Wherever we have been we have always come across people who have wanted to take the time to talk to us and find out where we are going and where we have been. Every new day meant we would meet one more memorable character - usually in a supermarket carpark - whether it be the old gentleman in Gisborne who still had his motorbike licence at 85 or the lady in Awatere who was visiting all the primary schools on the East Cape to teach children how to play to ukulele (as you would!) we will remember them all.